РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
w w w. h a r p e r s b a z a a r. c o m / u k
JULY 2019 £4.80
The joy of Ashley Graham
The spirit of
SUMMER
SECRET SPELLS, POETIC PEARLS, INCANTATIONS & ENCHANTMENT
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
CONTENTS JULY 2019
ON THE COVER 94 The joy of Ashley Graham From 45 The spirit of summer: secret spells, poetic pearls, incantations & enchantment
PAGE
94
Ashley Graham in this month’s cover story
FEATURES 94 THE JOY OF LIVING The irrepressible Ashley Graham radiates poise and positivity on Flying Point Beach in the Hamptons 176 21ST CENTURY MAGIC We investigate why tarot, spirituality and the arcane continue to bewitch and beguile the modern world 182 BEYOND THE FRAME As the National Portrait Gallery honours the genre-defying, chameleon-like artist Cindy Sherman, Frances Hedges meets the woman behind the mask FASHION 110 POETRY IN MOTION Greta Bellamacina traverses Europe in verse, aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express 152 THE ADVENTURE OF BURGH ISLAND In the footsteps of Agatha Christie, the model Damaris Goddrie enjoys a weekend of intrigue on the Devon coast
50
PHOTOGRAPH: PAMELA HANSON
52
66
JEWELLERY FAIRY TALES & FILIGREE Lydia Slater explores a glittering Wonderland of fables written in diamonds, sapphires and tsavorites
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 23
▼
45
STYLE 10 THINGS WE LOVE Pastoral prints, clever clashes and the glamour of the Nile in New York… MY MOODBOARD Longchamp’s Sophie Delafontaine on the inimitable Seventies icons who inspired her for spring/summer 19 THE STYLE GUIDE This season’s haute boho festivalwear
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
CONTENTS
PAGE
110
Greta Bellamacina in ‘Poetry in motion’
83 77
78
82
24 |
AT WORK HAVING A FIELD DAY Let a gentle hint of festival spirit liberate your business wardrobe CAN YOU MAKE MONEY AND MAKE A DIFFERENCE? The women financiers leading the charge for ethically responsible investing TALKING POINTS MODES OF EXPRESSION A few of our favourite female artists bringing verve and vision to this year’s Mayfair Art Weekend H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
84
85
86
BACK TO THE FUTURE How the daughter of a Sixties designer is reviving her father’s prints for today’s sartorial audience MINOR TO MAJOR A new book brings long-overdue recognition to the Viennese composer Alma Mahler RHYME AND REASON The polymath star of this month’s ‘Poetry in motion’ fashion story on acting, directing, modelling and more LABOUR OF LOVE Francesca Segal reveals how her neonatal group saved her from despair and inspired her to tell their story LINES OF BEAUTY Masterpiece London highlights the abstract graphic expression of the Italian painter Bice Lazzari
87
87
88
88
89
FASHIONING AN ICON Why Louis Vuitton has turned to a stable of contemporary visionaries to reimagine its classic Capucines bag SCENE STEALER The intriguing documentary charting the stellar rise and fall of the disco-era designer Roy Halston BRAVE NEW WORLDS As Ursula K Le Guin’s groundbreaking Earthsea novels are reissued, Erica Wagner recalls how the fantasy writer’s unique universes enthralled her as a child THE ART OF STYLE The famous wardrobe choices of Yayoi Kusama, Yoko Ono and Louise Bourgeois are fêted in an elegant coffee-table tome ECLECTIC AESTHETIC A bold palette for picturesque interiors www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
PHOTOGRAPH: TOM CRAIG
83
▼
69
ACCESSORIES CUBIST MOVEMENT An artful selection of handbags and heels for a high-stepping, free-flowing summer
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
CONTENTS
152
PAGE
Damaris Goddrie on the beach on Burgh Island in Devon
BEAUTY BAZAAR 190 RAYS OF HOPE Suncare that’s good for you, not bad for the planet 194 LOTIONS AND POTIONS Spiritual rituals to conjure a sense of bliss both inside and out ESCAPE 198 LAND OF THE GODS Justine Picardie contemplates Greece’s Mount Athos, a verdant coast where legend lives in the very rocks and trees 200 LA DOLCE VISTA Hotels with the most beautiful views in Italy 202 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Bulgari’s Lucia Silvestri shares her insider tips for discovering the secrets of Rome FLASH! 204 IN FULL SWING High times and high hemlines at the V&A’s Mary Quant exhibition party 205 FORCES OF NATURE Green was the colour at Alberta Ferretti’s chic eco-fashion gathering REGULARS 36 EDITOR’S LETTER 40 CONTRIBUTORS 90 HOROSCOPES July in the stars. By Peter Watson 206 STOCKISTS 218 WHY DON’T YOU… squeeze every drop of sunshine from a Sicilian celebration of citrus style?
SUBSCRIBE to HARPER’S BAZAAR For this month’s fabulous subscription offers
COVER LOOKS Above far left: Ashley Graham wears bikini top, £265; bikini bottoms, £295, both Eres. Above near left (subscribers’ cover): swimsuit, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. Styled by Leith Clark. Hair by Kevin Ryan at Art & Commerce, using Unite. Make-up by Lisa Houghton at Home Agency, using Revlon. Manicure by Momo at See Management. Photographs by Pamela Hanson. Above near right (limited-edition cover available exclusively at Masterpiece London): Untitled (1965) by Bice Lazzari, courtesy of Richard Saltoun. Above far right (limited-edtion cover available exclusively at Mayfair Art Weekend): Own (2019) by Isabelle van Zeijl, © Isabelle van Zeijl, courtesy of Cynthia Corbett Gallery
26 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
PHOTOGRAPH: JOSH SHINNER
turn to page 51, or ring 0844 322 1768
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
.COM/UK FASHION
BEAUTY
CULTURE
BRIDES
TRAVEL
BAZAAR AT WORK
LIFE’S A BEACH
WA L K I N G O N A I R
GUESTS OF HONOUR
M A K E WAV E S
Step out in style with a pair of mules, gladiators or slingbacks from Bazaar’s edit of chic new-season sandals
Be the best dressed in the bridal party with our favourite wedding looks for city ceremonies and countryside nuptials
Fall head over heels for effortlessly elegant swimwear that flatters every silhouette
O N L I N E N OW AT
W W W.HARPERSBAZA AR.COM/UK
PHOTOGRAPHS: RORY MULHERE, GETTY IMAGES, AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, RICHARD PHIBBS
Bold, brilliant and beautiful: in an exclusive video filmed on our shoot in the Hamptons, Ashley Graham shares her secrets for body confidence
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Published on 6 June
JUSTINE PICARDIE Editor-in-chief Creative director JO GOODBY Deputy editor/Bazaar At Work director LYDIA SLATER Group managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE Workflow director/chief sub-editor DOM PRICE Assistant to the editor ELLA PHILLIPS FASHION Group fashion director AVRIL MAIR Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD Executive fashion and jewellery director KIM PARKER Bookings director KIAAN ORANGE Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK Senior fashion editors MIRANDA ALMOND, CHARLIE HARRINGTON Junior fashion editors ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER, TILLY WHEATING, ROSIE WILLIAMS Bookings assistant LAURA MORRISSEY Senior fashion co-ordinator SOPHIE CHAPMAN Senior fashion assistant HOLLY GORST Fashion assistant GEORGIA MEDLEY Fashion intern CRYSTALLE COX Contributing fashion editor FLORRIE THOMAS FEATURES Associate editor FRANCES HEDGES Features director HELENA LEE Entertainment director/associate editor TOM MACKLIN Senior editor/travel director LUCY HALFHEAD Commissioning editor CHARLOTTE BROOK Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER BEAUTY AND HEALTH Group beauty director KATY YOUNG Beauty editor SIÂN RANSCOMBE Senior contributing editor, beauty HANNAH BETTS Assistant beauty editor BECKI MURRAY ART Associate editor HANNAH RIDLEY Design director AMY GALVIN Art editor LEANNE ROBSON Designers AMY BLACKER, KRISTINA HARRISON PICTURES Photography director RACHEL LOUISE BROWN Acting photography editor BROOKE MACE Picture editor LIZ PEARN Picture researcher OLIVIA KEATING COPY Sub-editor/entertainment writer YASMIN OMAR Sub-editor/features writer BROOKE THEIS Sub-editor/arts writer ELLEN PEIRSON-HAGGER WEBSITE Digital editor SARAH KARMALI Deputy digital editor ELLA ALEXANDER Digital fashion editor AMY DE KLERK Digital beauty director BRIDGET MARCH Social media editor NATALIE SALMON Digital assistant JESSICA DAVIS CONTRIBUTING EDITORS LISA ARMSTRONG, ELIZABETH DAY, SOPHIE ELMHIRST, TERESA FITZHERBERT, ANNA MURPHY, JULIE MYERSON, JULIET NICOLSON, ANDREW O’HAGAN, CATHERINE ST GERMANS, SASHA SLATER, PETER WATSON CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGR APHERS HENRY BOURNE, NICO BUSTOS, REGAN CAMERON, SOPHIE CARRÉ, HARRY CORY WRIGHT, TOM CRAIG, HARRY CROWDER, WILL DAVIDSON, MICHELANGELO DI BATTISTA, JERMAINE FRANCIS, ERIK MADIGAN HECK, ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, TRENT M C GINN, RICHARD PHIBBS, AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, THOMAS SCHENK, JOSH SHINNER, PHILIP SINDEN, DAVID SLIJPER, ALEXANDRA SOPHIE, ELLEN VON UNWERTH, PAUL ZAK Harper’s Bazaar ISSN 0141-0547 is published monthly (12 times a year) by Hearst UK c/o Express Mag, 12 Nepco Way, Plattsburgh, NY, 12903. Periodicals Postage paid at Plattsburgh, NY. POSTMASTER: send address changes to Harper’s Bazaar c/o Express Mag, PO Box 2769, Plattsburgh, NY 12901-0239. Harper’s Bazaar is distributed by Frontline Ltd, Peterborough (01733 555161). Sole agents for Australia and New Zealand: Gordon & Gotch (Australasia) Ltd. Agents for South Africa: Central News Agency Ltd. Copyright © Hearst Magazines UK, July 2019, Issue No 7/19. We regret that any free gifts, supplements, books or other items included with the magazine when it is sold in the UK are not available with copies purchased outside the UK.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Published on 6 June
JACQUELINE EUWE Managing director Personal assistant to the managing director LEANE BORDER-GRIFFITH Associate publisher SHARON DAVIES-RIDGEWAY Managing director, beauty JACQUI CAVE Heads of fashion and luxury LEE BROWN, MILES DUNBAR Fashion and luxury account executive ROSIE CAVE Watches and jewellery director ANNA O’SULLIVAN Watches and jewellery manager OLIVIA HORROCKS-BURNS Luxury creative solutions director BETHANY SUTTON Director of travel DENISE DEGROOT Director of motors JIM CHAUDRY Managing director, fitness and health ALUN WILLIAMS Client Direct director EMMA BARNES Italian and Swiss agent SAMANTHA DI CLEMENTE Group agency director SARAH TSIRKAS Regional director DANIELLE SEWELL Heads of luxury, agency LEE BAILEY, CHARLOTTE HOLLANDS Business manager JESSICA DAY Head of classified LEE RIMMER Production director JOHN HUGHES Production manager GRETA CROAKER Senior advertising production controller PAUL LOCKETT Managing director, events and sponsorship VICTORIA ARCHBOLD Head of events NIKKI CLARE Luxury partnership director MICHELLE PAGLIARULO Event manager KATRINA SEN Marketing and circulation director REID HOLLAND Head of consumer sales and marketing JAMES HILL Digital marketing director SEEMA KUMARI Head of promotions marketing AOIBHEANN FOLEY Head of subscription marketing JUSTINE BOUCHER Director of PR and communications EFFIE KANYUA PR and communications manager VINNIE NUZZOLESE HEARST MAGAZINES UK President and chief executive officer JAMES WILDMAN Executive assistant to the president and chief executive officer FAYE MCNULTY Chief operating officer and chief financial officer CLAIRE BLUNT Chief strategy officer ROBERT FFITCH Chief operations director CLARE GORMAN Chief agency officer JANE WOLFSON Chief people officer SURINDER SIMMONS Hearst Magazines UK, the trading name of the National Magazine Company Ltd, House of Hearst, 30 Panton Street, London SW1Y 4AJ (www.hearst.co.uk; www.harpersbazaar.com/uk). HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL Senior vice-president/general manager and managing director Asia and Russia SIMON HORNE Senior vice-president/editorial and brand director KIM ST CLAIR BODDEN Fashion and entertainment director KRISTEN INGERSOLL Executive editor ELEONORE MARCHAND For editorial enquiries, ring 020 3640 2252. For advertising enquiries, ring 020 3728 7713. For subscription enquiries, email hb @ subscription.co.uk.
INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS ARABIA, ARGENTINA, AUSTRALIA, BRAZIL, BULGARIA, CHILE, CHINA, CZECH REPUBLIC, GERMANY, GREECE, HONG KONG, INDIA, INDONESIA, JAPAN, KAZAKHSTAN, KOREA, LATIN AMERICA, MALAYSIA, NETHERLANDS, POLAND, ROMANIA, RUSSIA, SERBIA, SINGAPORE, SPAIN, TAIWAN, THAILAND, TURKEY, UKRAINE, UNITED STATES, VIETNAM Harper’s Bazaar is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and newspaper industry) and we abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice. To make a complaint, contact complaints @ hearst.co.uk or visit www.hearst.co.uk/hearst-magazines-uk-complaints-procedure. If we are unable to resolve your complaint, or if you would like more information about IPSO or the Editors’ Code, contact IPSO on 0300 123 2220, or visit www.ipso.co.uk. Magazine printed by Wyndeham Roche, Victoria Business Park, Roche, St Austell, PL26 8LX. Covers printed by the Westdale Press Ltd, 70 Portmanmoor Industrial Estate, East Moors, Cardiff, CF24 5HB. Harper’s Bazaar is fully protected by copyright, and nothing may be reprinted wholly or in part without permission. HEARST MAGAZINES UK ENVIRONMENTAL STATEMENT All paper used to make this magazine is from sustainable sources in Scandinavia, and we encourage our suppliers to join an accredited green scheme. Magazines are now fully recyclable. By recycling magazines, you can help to reduce waste and add to the 5.5 million tonnes of paper already recycled by the UK paper industry each year. Before you recycle your magazine, please ensure that you remove all plastic wrapping, free gifts and samples. If you are unable to participate in a recycling scheme, then why not pass your magazine on to a local hospital or charity?
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
FEEL THE POWER Enchantment is at the heart of Harper’s Bazaar, but like love or courage, it cannot be forced into existence. We always seek to beguile and inspire our readers; and though we sometimes encounter obstacles, there are occasional miraculous moments when a spellbinding alchemy springs into life, as in this month’s cover story, featuring the phenomenal Ashley Graham, whose charm and charisma light up the page. A female team worked together on the story – including the photographer, Pamela Hanson – and I very much hope that the spirit of such a sisterly collaboration is apparent, along with the warmth and energy that Ashley conjures around her. A sense of sisterhood may be similarly evident in our portfolio on magical thinking and contemporary witches in this issue; for as Charlotte Brook reveals in her story on the subject, today’s sorceresses include feminist authors, artists, poets and musicians, who are interested in creating mystical rituals, spells and incantations. These women share a capacity for curiosity and a desire to explore alternative realms; and whether you see yourself as a rational sceptic or an openminded agnostic, the art of magic is ever more prevalent in the creative world. Intriguingly, it also has a long-standing association with fashion: Coco Chanel used a set of fortunetelling cards (her well-used deck is still kept on her desk in her private apartment in Paris), while Christian Dior always consulted a clairvoyant before making any important decision. Since then, Maria Grazia Chiuri – Dior’s first female artistic director – has studied the brand’s archives, and reinterpreted the symbolism of tarot and talismans in her own designs. ‘Christian Dior was fascinated by the magical part of life,’ observes Chiuri. ‘He believed in divination, and the tarots, with their mysterious beauty, are among the oldest codes of the Dior house.’ In turn, she says, ‘I became passionate about this magical narrative, so closely linked to the feminine world, the most 36 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
Above: this month’s cover star Ashley Graham (page 94). Right: Bridget Riley’s ‘Between the Two’ (page 86). Below: Greta Bellamacina in ‘Poetry in motion’ (page 110)
PHOTOGRAPHS: PAMELA HANSON, TOM CRAIG, BRIDGET RILEY/COURTESY SIMS REED GALLERY, OLIVER HOLMS
EDITOR’S LETTER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
EDITOR’S LETTER Damaris Goddrie at Burgh Island (page 152). Left: Greta Bellamacina in Venice (page 110). Below: a Dior tarot card (page 176)
mysterious and powerful one… If for Christian Dior the tarots and their symbols were amulets, which he used to get in touch with a magical dimension, for me they are the keys to the ancestral and profound part of each of us.’ Elsewhere in the issue, we set out on a number of different journeys, including a trip across Europe aboard the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, where the poet Greta Bellamacina wrote a quartet of verses inspired by the experience; and embarked on a light-hearted pilgrimage to EDITOR’S Agatha Christie’s favourite writing retreat, CHOICES Burgh Island Hotel on the Devon coast. One of my sons is getting Meanwhile, our associate editor Frances married in the French countryside Hedges flew to New York to interview this summer, and there will be several Cindy Sherman, an enthralling artist days of festivities with friends and family. whose body of work is an exploration of Flat shoes are de rigueur – all the better identity, and the transformative power for walking across meadows – as is a of the imagination. beautiful floral silk dress by Erdem, All of which may, with any luck, entice along with my favourite diamonds you to undertake your own odyssey; and pearls, as talismanic whether as a reader entering new realms of amulets of loyalty fantasy, or a traveller in search of the unknown. and love. For to quote Ursula K Le Guin (the great American author profiled by Erica Wagner in this issue, and a writer who had a profound effect on me, from childhood onwards): ‘It is From a good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that selection Chopard matters in the end…’ £2,000 Giorgio Armani
Justine Picardie PS: Don’t miss the chance to subscribe to Harper’s Bazaar – turn to page 51 for this month’s offer. 38 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
From a selection Cartier
£515 Manolo Blahnik £1,095 Erdem
Ring, from a selection Chopard
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSH SHINNER, TOM CRAIG, DIOR TAROT CARD ILLUSTRATED BY NAOMI HOWARTH FOR THE DIOR CRUISE 2017 PARTY, PRODUCED BY FIONA LEAHY. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Necklace, from a selection Tasaki
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
CONTRIBUTORS ASHLEY GR AHAM ‘When women see me in a magazine, I want them to feel worthy,’ says our cover star, who has dedicated her career to boosting female self-esteem through body positivity – designing swimsuits for all body shapes, interviewing trailblazing women on her podcast and calling for more inclusive model casting. She opens up about her insecurities and inspirations on page 94. What magic means to you
‘Magic means making the seemingly impossible, possible.’
GRETA BELLAMACINA
What magic means to you
‘Mostly it is love and the simple things we often forget. A walk in the park, flying on a plane to foreign worlds, the age of the trees, the seabirds that understand the secrets of the ocean and the land.’
I do believe mermaids and aliens exist.’
LINA IRIS VIKTOR The British-Liberian artist blurs the boundary between the real and the imaginary in her ethereal-looking, gilded creations, which appear in our portfolio of magical thinking on page 176. What magic means to you ‘Magic is what happens
What magic means to you
A secret superstitious belief
‘I’ve lost awareness of myself and just fully embrace the experience surrounding me.’
‘Knocking on wood.’
whether that is acting in a film or reciting my poetry. There is something freeing about exploring all the different voices in your head on the stage.’
‘Every time I stepped out on stage as a kid; it was utterly liberating.’
A time you faced your fears
of my world.’
40 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
Since making her debut at JW Anderson’s A/W 15 show, the Dutch model (below right) has captivated the fashion industry, appearing on the catwalk for the world’s leading brands, including Chanel, Versace and Prada. She embarks on a summer escapade along the south coast of Devon in ‘The adventure of Burgh Island’ (page 152).
when you are able to see beyond the mundane aspects of life… It’s what you can see every day if you truly open your eyes.’
You’re most confident when... ‘I am performing,
‘Making my last film was quite daunting, because I was playing one of the lead roles but also directing while pregnant.’
DAMARIS GODDRIE
A time you faced your fears
Your mantra for feeling powerful ‘I am the creator
‘The unpredictability of life, although frightening, can be the closest to magic we can feel.’ You’re most confident when...
A time you faced your fears
‘Fear is a part of every job, every decision and every interaction. In my head that’s the only path to growth.’ Your mantra for feeling powerful ‘It’s OK to be afraid
of living and walking your path, but never question your strength.’
You’re most confident when… ‘I’m surrounded by
bold, fearless women. The feeling is contagious.’ A time you faced your fears
‘Launching my podcast, Pretty Big Deal. It was a brand-new endeavour for me, requiring extensive research, preparation and faith that it would succeed.’ Your mantra for feeling powerful ‘My daily
affirmations: I am bold, I am brilliant and I am beautiful. I am worthy of greatness!’
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM CRAIG, JOSH SHINNER
‘Whatever the medium, for me every project is about working together to convey a message powerfully,’ says the star of our fashion story (above; page 110), a glorious adventure aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express during which she penned four evocative poems for Bazaar. The writer and model – who also counts film-making and acting among her talents – is set to premiere her new movie Hurt by Paradise at this summer’s Edinburgh Film Festival.
A secret superstitious belief ‘I’m not superstitious, but
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
LIVE STANDING TOGETHER The annual Bazaar At Work Summit, themed this year around ‘A Better Balance’, brings together inspiring female leaders from around the world to share the hard-won secrets of their success. We invite you to join us for a life-changing day of empowering talks, thought-provoking panel discussions, interactive workshops and unmissable networking opportunities, in the elegant surroundings of Sotheby’s, New Bond Street, London W1, on 13 November. Tickets and tables, starting at £500 (plus booking fee), include access to all talks, plus a light breakfast, lunch and a Laurent-Perrier Champagne reception. An early-bird offer, starting at £400 a ticket, is available until 31 July. For details and to book, visit www.bazaarsummit.co.uk.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT
WWW.BAZAARSUMMIT.CO.UK
PHOTOGRAPH: REGAN CAMERON
In partnership with
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STYLE Edited by AVRIL MAIR
10 THINGS WE LOVE PHOTOGRAPH: BENOÎT PEVERELLI/COURTESY OF CHANEL
Radiant rubies, capacious carry-alls and delicate flower power
Anok Yai on the catwalk at the Chanel Métiers d’Art show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York
ALL THE FUN OF THE PHAROAH With their dramatic, graphic eyes and bold, bejewelled breastplates, the models at Chanel’s Ancient Egypt-inspired Métiers d’Art show shone with the strength and splendour of modern-day Cleopatras.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STYLE
PAIRING UP Jimmy Choo and Ashley Williams have got together to bring us this charming selection of embellished slippers and buckled sandals.
Ashley Graham on the catwalk at the Dolce & Gabbana S/S 19 show
Right: Emilia Wickstead. Below: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
COME ONE, COME ALL Behold the fitted, flared and fabulous glory: Dolce & Gabbana is launching its collections in increasingly inclusive sizes.
Savour the beauty of bucolic dressing: this summer, clean-cut designs by Emilia Wickstead and Preen bloom with English-country-garden flowers. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Harry Winston
Chanel Fine Jewellery
CHANEL
Bulgari High Jewellery Dior Joaillerie
Tiffany & Co Chaumet
Chopard
D O LC E & GA B BA N A
William & Son All prices from a selection
Clip Van Cleef & Arpels
E TRO
Gemfields
This season’s take on the Seventies gets ever more whimsical with stars, platforms and a froth of fringing.
VO
VA LE NTI N O
htly. led s
ea
r
ark
p g d ro
or
sp
to d a
Cuff David Morris
o brig
it t e r i n
, gl gs rin
t in
e zzlin ell t w o t ic w je r ub om d– ie s t a k e s t a te m e nt e t an ca ha s i st i h never b p e en so so
DREAMIER BOHEMIA
Boodles Bracelet Mallory
Bottega Veneta
LU
ME
CO
NT
RO
LH ail the
ove rs CHANEL
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Se
ry
ex
g
to new heights
f f, cu e nt rle r i ng n i fic s ca g o a r a m es . Th
Cartier
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
ize
ha n dba g
, in
wh ic
h st
yle me et
s st
ora g
e.
ON
W IA IL
MI
R
CH
O
EM
DI
AE
LK O
IC
RS
KS
TE
CO
A
D
LL
EC
TI
O A RMA GIO
DI
RGI
FEN
RA MAX MA
STYLE
NI
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
D
IO
R
M
IC
HA
EL
KO
RS
CO
LL
T EC
IO
N
ER VA
LE
N
TI
N
DE
M
O
K AT
PA E S
NEW DE
YO R
HERMÈ
K
S
Catch the dusty pinks and burnt siennas of dusk before the sun goes down on pre-fall 19.
BOLD & BEAUTIFUL
ERMAN
Alessandro Michele rewrites the language of lady-like attire through colour-clashing and a dash of Gucci glamour. Earrings, £1,800 Tiffany & Co
S
NO SCE RV
THE SLEEKEST LINK
INO
Bracelet, £3,900 Tiffany & Co
Chain jewellery gets an elegant upgrade this season, thanks to Dior, Salvatore Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton.
Necklace, £1,300 Dior
Bracelet, £270 Salvatore Ferragamo
£275 Louis Vuitton
A look from Gucci’s pre-fall 19 collection
£375 Louis Vuitton
WORDS BY CHARLOTTE BROOK AND KIM PARKER. PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
HERMÈ
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Above: the Longchamp S/S 19 moodboard. Below: looks from the collection
MY MOODBOARD Longchamp’s Sophie Delafontaine on blending Parisian sophistication and retro glamour in the S/S 19 collection
To celebrate Longchamp’s 70th anniversary, Sophie Delafontaine, the brand’s creative director, turned to the free-spirited Seventies icons Veruschka and Anita Pallenberg for the label’s first ever New York catwalk show. ‘I was inspired by their elegant style, with an eccentric twist,’ Delafontaine says. The lively collection featured transparent leopard-print maxis layered over leather bikinis, and fringed biker jackets with a dusting of semi-precious stones, worn over diaphanous dresses, all in a palette of purple, turquoise and brown. Models walked in knee-high gladiator sandals or fluffy mules, carrying embroidered saddle purses and holdalls in embossed calf-skin. ‘Our modern-day Amazon has become wilder and embraced hippie-chic,’ Delafontaine says. ‘She is confident; she is free.’ LUCY HALFHEAD
MOODBOARD COURTESY OF LONGCHAMP. PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP, IMAXTREE
STYLE
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
SUBSCRIBE JUST£18 FOR 12 ISSUES
SAVE 68% ON THE NEWSSTAND PRICE PLUS
Receive Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer, worth
£32 ‘One of the lightest formulas I’ve tried for serious skin-quenching’ PHOTOGRAPHS: PAMELA HANSON, LUCKY IF SHARP
KATY YOUNG
Beauty director
ORDER EXCLUSIVELY ONLINE AT
WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINES.CO.UK/HZ-MAGAZINE OR RING 0844 322 1768 AND QUOTE OFFER CODE 1BZ11536 This offer is valid for new UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. After your first 12 issues, your subscription will continue at a rate of £18 every six issues unless you are notified otherwise. The free gift is available for the first 300 subscribers and is subject to availability. If stock runs out, you will be offered a replacement gift. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery of your gift, which will arrive separately to your subscription. All savings are based on the standard cover price of £4.80. Subscriptions may not include promotional items packaged with the magazine. All orders will be acknowledged, and you will be advised of the start issue within 14 days. Subscriptions may be cancelled by providing 28 days’ notice. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer, and closes on 3 July 2019. For UK subscription enquiries, ring 01858 438880. Lines are open weekdays, 8am–9.30pm; Saturdays, 8am–4pm. Calls to 0844 numbers cost 7p a minute plus your phone company’s access charge. For our data policy, visit www.hearst.co.uk/privacy-notice. All information is correct at the time of going to press.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
T H E S T Y L E G U I D E
FESTIVALS From Glastonbury to Wilderness, dance till dawn in the new dress code of relaxed but polished pieces
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSH SHINNER STYLED BY FLORRIE THOMAS
NO 1
le ng
come l e
the j
u
to
Hide a tantalising trick up your sleeve with this glorious foliage-print lining.
w
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: cotton dress, £412, Parosh. Leather sandals, £525, Boss. Gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond necklace, £5,250, Dior Joaillerie. Gold, aquamarine, sapphire and crystal ring, £149, Atelier Swarovski. Rose gold bracelet (top), £8,230; rose gold bracelet, £6,570, both Hermès. OPPOSITE: cotton and silk poncho, £2,585, Salvatore Ferragamo. Gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond ring, £2,450, Dior Joaillerie. Gold bracelet, £7,825, Tiffany & Co
d-bac i la
ce
elegan k
NO 2 Make dressing down as charming as dressing up with a flowing feminine dress and chunky lace-up sandals.
STYLE
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: cotton jumpsuit, £150, Iris and Ink at the Outnet. Gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond earrings, £2,650, Dior Joaillerie. Gold chain bracelet, £8,900, Kiki McDonough. Rose gold and diamond bracelet, £1,890, Pomellato. Leather sandals, £145, Russell & Bromley. OPPOSITE: cotton jacket with belt, £695, William & Son. Cotton skirt, £195, the Kooples. Suede waist-bag, £240, Holland & Holland. Gold and pearl earrings, £1,540, Tasaki. Right hand, from top: gold ring, £115, Pandora. Gold chain bracelet, as before. Rose gold and brown diamond bracelet, £4,140, Pomellato. Rose gold, tiger eye and brown diamond ring (left hand), Pomellato
ac
cess
s
l area l a
NO 3 A khaki jumpsuit is the ultimate one-stop staple; elevate it with studded-leather flats and gleaming jewellery.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STYLE
m ’ I
e ban
ds
wit h
th
NO 4 Up the fashion stakes and add a waist-bag to a belted beige jacket for a double cinch.
JOSH SHINNER
r wra e d
p s
NO 5
e
it u p n e
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Layer up when the sun goes down and drape a soft cashmere shawl over stiff denim.
k
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STYLE
bohe e t
m
ia
NO 6
e e l
k ha u
THIS PAGE: silk crepe dress, £950, Zaeem Jamal. Calf-skin bag, £2,550, Dior. Gold and pearl earrings, £5,920, Tasaki. Gold bracelet, £4,975, Tiffany & Co. Gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond ring, £2,450, Dior Joaillerie. OPPOSITE: denim jacket, £160, Levi’s. Cashmere shawl, £1,395, William & Son. Gold and pearl earrings, £1,540, Tasaki
s JOSH SHINNER
Feel the rhythm in a loose white dress, while a delightful pop of colour takes centre stage.
n
harm
o
ny
e-sp m u o
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
NO 7 Combine a thick-knit jumper worn over the shoulders with a modern minimalist’s take on the straw basket.
THIS PAGE: cotton dress, £250; straw bag, from a selection, both Kate Spade New York. Silk and cotton jumper, £1,240, Loro Piana. Gold earrings, £2,220, Gucci. Gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond necklace, £5,250, Dior Joaillerie. Right hand, from left: gold and diamond bracelet, from a selection, Dior Joaillerie. Gold and pearl bracelet, £6,860, Tasaki. Rose gold rings, from £1,720, Pomellato. OPPOSITE: check cape, £680, Yves Salomon. Cotton dress, £105, DKNY. Leather boots, £530, Church’s. Rose gold necklace, £10,740, Hermès. Rose gold ring (right hand), £1,720, Pomellato. Gold, tanzanite and green tourmaline ring (left hand), £13,600, Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co
JOSH SHINNER
h
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STYLE
check
two e n … o
NO 8 Expertly offset a voluminous cape and sturdy ankle-boots with bare legs and delicate broderie anglaise.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: denim shirt, £220, Jacob Cohën. Leather skirt, £5,300, Tod’s. Gold, earrings, £3,200, Dior Joaillerie. Gold and topaz ring (right hand), £1,600, Kiki McDonough. Gold ring (left hand), £55, Pandora. Leather bag, £225, Kate Spade New York. OPPOSITE: cotton and linen coat, £395, Ba&sh. Crepe dress, £405, Longchamp. Gold earrings, £2,220, Gucci
o fr
fring i u
ng
u-fr o
STYLE
NO 9 A daring devil-may-care pairing of denim and leather thoroughly befits the backstage.
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
s
den u l o
rton e
n
de
NO 10 Choose a neutral palette and mix different textures to add panache to your ensemble.
g
o
p o s
ted re a c
tr
hist i
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
NO 11 A frilly peasant blouse lends finesse to high-waisted Eightiesrevival jeans.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
leng t t a
hs
NO 12
WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS
g
o
to gr e
THIS PAGE: linen shorts, £145, Luisa Spagnoli. Linen and cotton shirt, £350; cotton parka, £1,250; leather boots, £1,050, all Holland & Holland. Leather bag, £1,095, Jimmy Choo. Gold earrings, £2,220, Gucci. Rose gold rings (right hand), from £2,560, all Pomellato. Gold ring (left hand; just seen), £1,900, Kiki McDonough. OPPOSITE: cotton top, £190, the Kooples. Jeans, £155, Gerard Darel. Gold earrings, £115, Pandora. See Stockists for details. Hair by Leigh Keates at Premier Hair and Make-up, using Babyliss Pro and R+Co. Make-up by Bea Sweet, using Tom Ford Beauty. Stylist’s assistant: Sophie Chapman. Model: Myriam Tran at the Hive Management
…with a pair of long linen shorts, tall military boots and a timeless trench in case of rain.
JOSH SHINNER
STYLE
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
FAIRY TALES & FILIGREE
The latest Wonderland collection from Boodles is a sparkling storybook of fabulous fables written in brilliant gems By LYDIA SLATER
Stra w
b
er r
y P ick ing
All prices from a selection
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
JEWELLERY s
mbo
o in t h e M o o n
li g
h
ov
L
nce upon a time, just beyond the setting sun, there bloomed a garden of delights, where flamingoes splashed in the fountains, a longtailed songbird perched beside a waterfall, and a ruby-shelled turtle set out in quest of a drowned city… This fantasy landscape, depicted in tourmalines and sapphires, garnets and moonstones, is spread out before my dazzled eyes in a private room above Boodles’ New Bond Street store. Around my wrist, the rays of a spectacular sunset shine against diamondstudded clouds, while a flashing hummingbird has alighted on one of my earlobes and an iridescent dragonfly on the other. Boodles’ first high-jewellery Wonderland collection, created in 2008 by its head of design Rebecca Hawkins, was themed around folk and fairy tales. Now, for the fifth iteration, she has returned to the original concept, this time giving it an enigmatic twist. ‘I was thinking about how the title of a poem, or a painting, or a book can capture your imagination straight away,’ Hawkins says. In the same way, each of the 27 poetically named pieces in the collection is intended to evoke a mood, initiate a reverie or recall a moment of joy whose deeper meaning will be particular to its owner. What links them all are the swirls and curlicues that subtly allude to calligraphy, and the ampersand motif that can be seen in many of the designs, indicating, says Hawkins ‘a relationship between people, points in time or events – like War and Peace, Pride and Prejudice, The Hare and the Tortoise… The idea is to inspire people looking at each piece to
en
ice
Ba
t
one ing St m m i Sk
e L ette r to V
think what the story might be.’ Her first creation, the spectacular Sand Storm & Solar Eclipse cuff, uses black star sapphires, edged with brilliants, to represent the sun hidden behind the moon, while the swirling sands beneath recall fluid Arabic script; another cuff, Dragonfly & Dahlia, has a diamond-set ampersand as its central symbol, adorned with a shimmering insect with wings of blue and green that seems to hover above the vibrant rubellite blooms. The Parakeet & Pomegranate earrings show a pair of glittering birds with bulging mother-of-pearl crops spreading their wings in sated satisfaction as they perch on branches heavy with ruby fruit. There are several necklaces whose names alone are enough to spark a daydream: the Summer Palace, with its fountain and prancing flamingoes; Bamboo in the Moonlight, inspired by a Japanese woodcut; or Plum Blossom Behind the Mirror. Other pieces in the collection set out to capture for eternity evanescent moments of joy: the childhood pastime of blowing the seeds from a dandelion clock becomes a ring, exquisitely fashioned from multicoloured diamonds, green tourmalines and tsavorites; plucking aromatic strawberries, warm from the sun, straight from the plant – the juicy berries rendered in pale-pink diamonds suspended from a spectacular necklace; the perfect satisfaction of sending a smooth stone bouncing across the surface of a still pool… ‘Most of us have happy memories of skimming stones,’ says Hawkins, who, having collaborated with the Royal Ballet four years ago to produce a Pas de Deux collection that recreated the movement and shapes formed by dancers, has perfected her ability to express kinetic energy through the medium of jewellery. Oval diamonds ‘bounce’ across the Skimming Stones brooch, shrinking in size, the glittering ripples diminishing as they get further away; while in the Ice Skaters cuff, which is Hawkins’ personal favourite piece, the skaters’ tracks, rendered in moonstones, diamonds and platinum, criss-cross over one another, simultaneously conveying dynamic exuberance while nodding once more to the theme of the ampersand. ‘Ultimately, there’s always a story and an emotional link behind any piece of fine jewellery,’ says Hawkins. ‘It’s either a memorable purchase or a memorable gift, and something you wear for years and years. You always remember when, and where, and why you acquired a particular jewel. It’s like a life marker – it has its own story, and it becomes part of yours.’ Boodles, 178 New Bond Street, London W1 (www.boodles.com).
&
Parakeet
lia ah
Tr ee
Dragonfly &
D
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LISA RAMPILLI
‘The collection is intended to initiate a reverie or recall a moment of joy’
T he M
a and
r in
egra Pom nate
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 67
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ACCESSORIES Edited by AVRIL MAIR
Photograph by PAUL ZAK Styled by TILLY WHEATING
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
£2,150 Chanel
CUBIST MOVEMENT
This season’s multifaceted pieces create an artful sense of energy
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ACCESSORIES £2,150 Dior
Brooch, £330 Dior
£750 Fendi
£350 Kate Spade New York £315 Prada £1,095 Jimmy Choo
£1,440 Chanel
From a selection Chloé
£10,595 Chanel
£5,300 Dior £1,205 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello £475 Givenchy
£1,090 Dior £250 Dior £1,450 Fendi
£995 Miu Miu
£1,970 Louis Vuitton
70 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
£240 Ermanno Scervino
£630 Giorgio Armani £1,420 Gucci
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
▼
£649 Atelier Swarovski
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
From a selection Balenciaga
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
£3,020 Louis Vuitton
flo ic ect Ecl
DÉ D NG A I R L ra ls
CO UP AGE
de lic ate ly
ado rn L ouis Vuitto n’s delightful shoulder-bag PAUL ZAK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ACCESSORIES
£545 Manolo Blahnik
Brooch, £350 Erdem at Matchesfashion.com
From a selection Dolce & Gabbana
£635 Tabitha Simmons
£239 Miu Miu
£2,290 Louis Vuitton
£1,690 Fendi
£1,680 Gucci
Choker, £750 Fendi
£625 Manolo Blahnik
Bracelet, £890 Dior
£2,500 Celine by Hedi Slimane
£790 Fendi
Cuff, £1,070 Chanel
£495 Emilia Wickstead
£3,400 Kiki McDonough
£530 Erdem
Scarf, £150 Dior
Bracelet, from a selection Dior Joaillerie £690 Etro From a selection Dolce & Gabbana
£1,145 Annoushka About £815 Dolce & Gabbana
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 73
▼
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Ring, £550 Dior
ild
L A
T I N S CT N I
iller pair of leopard k a -pr ith int w e he d si els
Take a wal k
on t he w
A NIM
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
£550 Miu Miu
PAUL ZAK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ACCESSORIES £2,830 Gucci £740 Celine by Hedi Slimane
£1,490 Michael Kors
£129 Polo Ralph Lauren
Bag, £1,365 Bottega Veneta
Bag, £850; belt (attached), £310, both Givenchy
About £1,965 Versace From a selection Burberry
£490 Ermanno Scervino
£2,510 Valentino Garavani £730 Manolo Blahnik
£270 Salvatore Ferragamo
Clip, £5,450 Van Cleef & Arpels £287 Dolce & Gabbana
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
£360 Max Mara £1,650 Alexander McQueen
Ring, from a selection Dior Joaillerie
From a selection Dior
£1,500 Alberta Ferretti
Charm, £40 Pandora
£2,840 Gucci £600 Louis Vuitton
Necklace, £1,760 Chanel
£510 Tabitha Simmons for Johanna Ortiz
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 75
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
WIN £5,000
FOR A CHANCE TO WIN, COMPLETE THE SURVEY ONLINE AT
W W W.THISSURVEY.COM/ WATCH
PHOTOGRAPH: ESTER GRASS VERGARA. *TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY; VISIT THE WEBSITE FOR DETAILS
TO SPEND ON A WATCH OF YOUR CHOICE FROM*
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
AT WORK
L ZAK AU P y
Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer, £34 Estée Lauder
Wallet, £290 Chloé at Net-APorter
CEO Glow Face Oil, £34 Sunday Riley
Card holder, £170 Tom Ford
£42 S’Well x Liberty
£2,800 Chaumet
ER
From a selection JaegerLeCoultre
St y
Ring, £2,390; bracelet, £8,450, both Chaumet
LM
Bracelets, £290 a pair Dior
Purse, £285 Christian Louboutin
le
d
by
PA
£146 Michael Kors
Photograp hb
Edited by LYDIA SLATER
RO
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
HAVING A FIELD DAY Embrace relaxed boho touches to keep the festival spirit alive when you’re back at your desk
£445 Longchamp
SIE A
L RKE
L-
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
- REPORT-
Q: CAN YOU MAK E MONEY AND MAK E A DIFFERENCE? A:
Inspired by a vanguard of female bankers, the funding of socially conscious firms generates both financial returns and benefits for the community By LYDIA SLATER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
AT WORK
F
rom Scrooge to Gordon Gekko and the Wolf of Wall Street, it is an accepted cultural trope that those who work with money are untrustworthy, callous, grasping – and mostly male. ‘A decade ago, I was being sent to London day schools to talk to the girls about a career in banking,’ recalls Eva Lindholm, the head of UBS’ Wealth Management business in the UK and Jersey. ‘I wondered why they were so uninterested, until I did a straw poll about the words they associated with banking. When I said “male”, all the hands went up, and at least half agreed with “corrupt”. But when I said “ethical”, nobody put their hand up. They had already formed the view that it was male, and bad.’ There are encouraging signs, however, that a female-driven trend is revolutionising this hitherto dismal image. Social impact investing (SII) aims to unite God and Mammon, by putting money behind companies that, for instance, have an environmental focus or a gender-balanced leadership. The idea is simultaneously to deliver attractive financial returns and positive results for society – as well as for the investor’s own mental wellbeing. ‘Impact investing is a really good approach to wealth in terms of happiness,’ says Diana Chambers, a ‘family wealth mentor’ whom I meet over coffee at the Conduit, a London private members’ club aimed at social changemakers. ‘There are two correlates of happiness: having strong social networks, and a sense of meaning and purpose. Impact investing will bring you both – because if you Helena Morrissey, care about and put money behind a particular head of personal cause, you will meet other people who feel as investing at strongly about it as you do. Impact investing Legal & General can give you a sense of community that an Investment Management exchange-traded fund is never going to do.’ For many years, such a win-win strategy was assumed to be impossible. According to the venture capitalist Nancy Pfund: ‘We got a lot of doors slammed in our face. People thought that by introducing something other than an economic driver into your investment decisions you would lose money.’ Her own early investments in ‘cleantech’ companies such as Tesla have been eloquent testimony to the opposite. ‘It started off as an avoidance strategy; a rudimentary way of saying, don’t give me any “sin stocks” – no gambling, no tobacco,’ says Lindholm. ‘But there’s science behind the fact that companies with better scores on certain indices, like equality, treatment of their employees or carbon footprint, do tend to perform better over the long run.’ ‘Sustainability is a big part of financial performance,’ agrees Helena Morrissey, who runs Legal & General’s personal-investing business. ‘If you had shares in a car manufacturer that wasn’t thinking about electric cars, you probably wouldn’t get a great return.’ One has only to consider recent high-profile PR debacles and the subsequent consumer boycotts experienced by numerous brands to
be aware that companies that are perceived by the public to be behaving irresponsibly can pay a heavy price in terms of lost revenue. ‘Eventually, all the mainstream money will be invested on this basis because it will be very risky to do otherwise,’ says Morrissey. The next decade will see a huge transfer of wealth into the hands of women, who have consistently been shown to have more positive attitudes towards social investing than their male counterparts. A survey carried out this year by Kantar for the newly formed WealthiHer Network found that some 67 per cent of female respondents said mak ing a positive impact was of high importance when considering where to invest. ‘Women have for a long time looked at wealth differently – even in very traditional societies, you tend to see the female family members engaged in the social, philanthropy and community directions,’ agrees Lindholm. ‘Now you add the millennials into the mix, who have a completely different moral compass. They care about all sorts of things, which they integrate into how they think about money. You’re starting to see our industry respond to that. Once the wall of money starts moving behind a trend, it becomes the established way of doing things.’ Last year, UBS launched the first 100 per cent sustainable cross-asset portfolio for private clients, which now has £3.8 billion under management. L&G’s Future World Gender in Leadership fund (the ‘Girl Fund’), which Morrissey spearheaded last year, only invests in companies with higher-than-average gender diversity in their top ranks. ‘We measure the number of women on boards, women in the workforce, women in leadership positions, and we are also looking to introduce the gender pay gap as a measure,’ says Morrissey, who invested her own ISA into the Girl Fund this year. ‘I really want to put my money where my mouth is,’ she says. ‘When we tested the results, it produced very similar returns to a normal index, but at a lower risk – which shouldn’t come as a surprise.’ Colleen Ebbitt is a senior policy advisor in the government’s Inclusive Economy Unit and has led its work on ‘innovative finance’ – blending public and commercial investment funds to help solve social issues, overseeing such projects as Big Society Capital, established by the Cabinet Office in 2012 with £600 million of funds taken from dormant bank accounts to support social-investment projects. ‘Now we have over 100,000 social businesses in the UK, contributing £70 billion to our GDP. It’s very exciting,’ she says. ‘I was at JP Morgan for almost a decade, but working on SII policy, and raising awareness of the major, pressing social issues is really satisfying. There are a lot of recovering bankers working in this area… Gordon Gekko is dead.’
PHOTOGRAPHS: REGAN CAMERON, OLIVER HOLMS
‘Eventually, all the mainstream money will be invested ethically – it will be very risky to do otherwise’
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 79
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
TALKING POINTS Edited by FRANCES HEDGES
PHOTOGRAPH: ISABELLE VAN ZEIJL, COURTESY OF CYNTHIA CORBETT GALLERY
LAYERS OF MEANING Isabelle van Zeijl’s flamboyant photography goes on show at Mayfair Art Weekend. Plus, Francesca Segal’s ode to the fearless women who sustain her, and the otherworldly genius of Ursula K Le Guin Isabelle van Zeijl’s ‘I am II’ (2019)
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
All artworks, price on request. Left: Emma Amos’ ‘Blue Balls’ (1964). Below: Joan Mitchell’s ‘Untitled n 13’ (1977)
Emma Amos at Galerie Thaddaeus-Ropac Photographs, embroidery and swatches of bright weavings punctuate Atlanta-born Emma Amos’ richly painted canvases, in a genre-defying combination of craft and fine art. Shown as part of a group display titled ‘Artists I Steal From’,
ART
Isabelle van Zeijl at Cynthia Corbett Gallery The Dutch fine-art photographer Isabelle van Zeijl subverts oppressive ideals of female beauty with her striking self-portraits, in which she depicts herself in the context of paintings by Old Masters. ‘The characters in my work embody all that women can be,’ says van Zeijl. ‘Instead of one-dimensional views, they display a multitude of emotions.’ Above: Isabelle van Zeijl’s ‘Own’ (2019). Below: Ann-Marie James’ ‘After Hokusai 1’ (2019)
MODES OF EXPRESSION
curated by Alvaro Barrington and Julia Peyton-Jones, her works challenge the historic appropriation of non-Western cultural forms.
Discover vivid works of brilliance at this year’s Mayfair Art Weekend By BROOKE THEIS
This June, Mayfair Art Weekend returns with a sensational showing of painting, sculpture and antiques at venues including Victoria Miro, Gagosian Grosvenor Hill and the Royal Academy. The sixth edition of the thriving art quarter’s annual celebration officially commences with Gallery Hop!, a whirlwind evening of private views and receptions, while throughout the month the streets of Mayfair and St James’s will be adorned with a series of flags designed by the Royal Academician Michael Craig-Martin. Inside the galleries, a number of trailblazing women artists – both established and emerging – will be in the spotlight; a few of our favourites are featured on this page. Mayfair Art Weekend (www.mayfairartweekend.com) runs from 28 to 30 June. Ann-Marie James at Lyndsay Ingram Inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphoses, the British artist Ann-Marie James’ paintings, drawings and collages transform motifs from familiar works using layered textures and colours, resulting in a compelling deconstruction of art history. Her two most recent series reference pieces such as The Sea Monster by Albrecht Dürer and Hokusai’s The Great Wave Off Kanagawa.
Joan Mitchell at Olivier Malingue Joan Mitchell was one of only a few critically acclaimed women abstract expressionists, along with Lee Krasner, Elaine de Kooning and Grace Hartigan. Now, the 20th-century artist’s lyrical brushwork will be displayed by Olivier Malingue in an exhibition of post-World War II works that navigate the space between figuration and abstraction. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
URE UT F E n’s vibrant 19
DESIGN
ic
T
ival o f
BAhCe reKv TO
T R
Hhard Alla
60s pa tt
By FRANCES HEDGES
s ern
Below: ‘Elsa in Malachite’ art print, from £750. Bottom: the June 1964 issue of Bazaar
PHOTOGRAPHS: © ISABELLE VAN ZEIJL, COURTESY CYNTHIA CORBETT GALLERY, COPYRIGHT ANN-MARIE JAMES, COURTESY LYNDSEY INGRAM, © EMMA AMOS/VAGA AT ARTISTS RIGHT SOCIETY, NEW YORK AND DACS, LONDON 2019, PRIVATE COLLECTION, LONDON, COURTESY EMMA AMOS AND RYAN LEE GALLERY, NEW YORK, COURTESY OLIVIER MALINGUE GALLERY LTD, FLORENT CHEVROT, COURTESY RICHARD ALLAN LONDON, ALAMY
TALKING POINTS
When Cate Allan was a young girl, she would visit her father’s store off Grosvenor Square and marvel at the silk scarves he designed for his eponymous brand, Richard Allan. ‘I remember playing at the back of the showroom and admiring all the colours and samples,’ she recalls fondly. ‘At the time, they seemed quite daring.’ In his heyday, Richard Allan was a staple of the Swinging Sixties fashion scene, collaborating with Schiaparelli and Yves Saint Laurent, and his products featured in many an edition of Harper’s Bazaar. For the cover of the June 1964 issue, Allan produced a bespoke Bazaar-branded scarf, available to order in four different colourways, which the magazine described as ‘Aster in Turmeric’, a limited-edition art print ‘the first word in fashion, cunningly designed to make by Richard Allan, from £750 a brilliant abstract pattern’. Sadly, Allan developed Parkinson’s disease in the 1980s; his company was sold in 1989 and many of his innovative designs were lost or destroyed. It wasn’t until 2014 that Cate came up with the idea of reviving the brand for a contemporary audience, and proceeded to devote herself to trawling through what remained of her father’s archive. This year, she has released a series of limited-edition art prints, made using the original patterns with updated colour palettes, and is launching a new scarf collection at William & Son from July. As for that ‘cunningly designed’ Bazaar model, Cate has recreated it especially for readers of this magazine – now in dark navy with bright-red typography – reviving the spirit of Swinging London for a new generation. Above: the updated The limited-edition Harper’s Bazaar silk scarf is available from Richard Allan for Harper’s Bazaar scarf, Richard Allan (www.richardallanlondon.co.uk), priced £130. £130. Right: the ‘Dotty in Marine’ art print, from £750
BOOKS
MINOR TO MAJOR
More than a mere muse to her famous lovers, Alma Mahler was a talented composer in her own right ‘All I love in a man is his achievement. The greater the achievement, the more I have to love him.’ These are the words of the 20th-century composer Alma Mahler, who aligned herself romantically with some of the leading creative figures of her age, including Gustav Mahler, the architect Walter Gropius, the writer Franz Werfel and the expressionist painter Oskar Kokoschka. Erudite and perceptive, she became an irreplaceable muse to each of her lovers: Kokoschka was apparently so distraught when their affair ended that he commissioned a life-size doll to be made in her image. Until now, accounts of Alma have tended to focus on the influence she had upon the men with whom she associated, overlooking the significance of her own musical output. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
Cate Haste has redressed this imbalance in a new biography, Passionate Spirit, which re-evaluates the composer’s legacy through decades of diary entries, epistolary correspondences and interviews with her granddaughter Marina. Alma’s partners were affronted by her ambition, encouraging her instead to sublimate her Alma Mahler in talent into homemaking; her first husband about 1909 Gustav Mahler told her that ‘the role of the “composer”, the “bread-winner” is mine; yours is that of the loving partner, the sympathetic comrade… you must surrender yourself to me unconditionally’. In this fascinating exploration, Haste paints a portrait of a woman who was born to triumph, not surrender. YASMIN OMAR ‘Passionate Spirit: The Life of Alma Mahler’ by Cate Haste (£26, Bloomsbury) is published on 13 June. July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 83
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Greta Bellamacina photographed by Tom Craig for ‘Poetry in motion’ (page 110). Below and below left: looks from the Valentino A/W 19 collection, featuring Bellamacina’s words
CULTURE
RHYME AND REASON
The multi-talented Greta Bellamacina blends a poetic sensibility with an audacious entrepreneurial spirit By CHARLOTTE BROOK
F
ilm-maker, model, actress, poet: Greta Bellamacina is a modern-day Renaissance woman. Growing up in Camden, she was just 14 when she was cast as a Slytherin student in the film adaptation of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, and she has been making a name for herself ever since. After graduating from Rada, Bellamacina studied English at King’s College London and was shortlisted as Young Poet Laureate of London. She then founded the New River Press, an independent publishing house, with her husband, the artist Robert Montgomery, with whom she fell in love while they were co-writing a book of verse over email, Montgomery in Scotland, Bellamacina in England. Bellamacina’s creative instincts, coupled with her natural grace as a model, have inspired several fashion collaborations. Words she penned for Pierpaolo Piccioli are embroidered onto the tulle gowns of Valentino’s autumn/winter 2019 collection, while poems she composed aboard the Venice SimplonOrient-Express for Bazaar’s latest fashion story weave through the resulting narrative on page 110. ‘Whatever the medium, for me every project is about working together to convey a message powerfully,’ she says. This is certainly true of her first foray into feature-film-making. Bellamacina’s 2016 documentary, The Safe House, which movingly charts the decline of British libraries, was written and produced on a tiny budget, but because of the cause – and, no doubt, its creator’s beguiling sense of purpose and Below: Claude Lalanne’s ‘Trône de Pauline’ (1990/2007). Right: her ‘Table Ginkgo’ (2009)
ART
energy – it attracted the support of a number of high-profile collaborators. Zadie Smith, John Cooper Clarke and Stephen Fry all became involved, and the film was longlisted for a Bafta award. This gave Bellamacina the confidence to direct, co-write and appear in Hurt by Paradise, a tender, comic drama about two women attempting to co-parent, which will premiere at this year’s Edinburgh Film Festival. Alongside talented British stars such as Camilla Ruther ford and Nicholas Rowe, the cast includes a number of first-time actors, lending an intriguing sense of realism to the production. As a creative polymath, Bellamacina finds that each of her artistic endeavours invigorates the others. ‘I have always felt that poetry is my heart,’ she says, ‘but I come from a big family, and performing was a way to get my voice heard amid the chaos.’ The difference is that now, we are all listening. www.gretabellamacina.com
B RO NZE AG E
A tribute to the fearlessly innovative Claude Lalanne
Claude Lalanne was not a woman who tolerated being pigeonholed. ‘They are not furniture, they are not sculpture – call them “Lalannes”,’ she said of the genre-defying commissions that she and her husband, François-Xavier, took on for clients such as Hubert de Givenchy and Karl Lagerfeld. Lalanne, who died in April aged 93, consistently rejected the traditional division between fine and decorative art. Uniting form and function, her whimsical designs included mirrors embellished with art nouveau-inspired flora, chandeliers made from sinuous, branch-like forms, bronze crocodile-shaped benches and an oversize cabbage with chicken feet (Serge Gainsbourg famously used the latter for the cover of his 1976 album, The Man with the Cabbage Head). In 1969, Lalanne created a series of bronze casts of the model Veruschka’s body that Yves Saint Laurent used to display dresses from his couture collection – a memorable collaboration that secured her legacy in the world of fashion as well as art. FH
84 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
Claude Lalanne with her husband François-Xavier in 1970
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
TALKING POINTS
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM CRAIG, GETTY IMAGES, IMAXTREE, © CLAUDE LALANNE, COURTESY OF BEN BROWN FINE ARTS, LAURA ALICE HART, COURTESY OF FRANCESCA SEGAL. SILK DRESS, £8,200; CRYSTAL EARRINGS; CRYSTAL BANGLE, BOTH FROM A SELECTION, ALL ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
L
ike many mothers of very small children, my sanity is explained gently as she showed me how to read their drug charts – so almost entirely dependent upon WhatsApp. I am in a why was I continuing to torture myself with abstinence? Lisa group with three other women and it is to this coven that brought me baby-name books (‘You can’t call them A and B for I address almost all my questions, often but not exclu- ever’); others explained everything from how to sterilise the breast sively about parenting – they’ve advised me on work and weaning; pumps to where to find cheap, quick lunches near the hospital, or on cauliflower recipes and caesarean recovery; they’ve recom- which salon nearby could quickly remove the old, peeling shellac mended novels and nipple cream. And they’ve done a great deal of from fingernails that were supposed, for health and safety, to be as it at 3am. We talk a lot about how to raise our short and bare as possible. The exchange of biscuits and gummy spirited little girls, and how to raise them sweets was copious, generous, varied. We talked exhaustively up. Each of us has several daughters. And about our babies, their struggles and setbacks, and made it our as of six weeks ago, I have three. business to cheer each other’s triumphs as our own. We had But ours isn’t a friendship drawn from a earnest discussions about postpartum weight loss, commisermothers’ Facebook page, nor a local NCT ating with one another about our waistlines while we passed chapter. Our WhatsApp group shares the around innumerable bags of vending-machine Minstrels, or name of our local hospital, where we met. tubes of Pringles. ‘I’m sure we should all be glamorously thin Each of our first pregnancies found us in with grief by now,’ I remember Eloise declaring, scrunching that hospital for months, our babies side by up the wrapper from her second Krispy Kreme. side in Neonatal Intensive Care. After the girls finally came home, I realised I longed to write For a 35-year-old carrying twins, I my friends a love letter. The result is had an improbably easy first pregnancy. Mother Ship, a hymn to my daughters, LITERATURE Almost from the beginning the expanand above all else to sisterhood – a story sion of my waistline was comedic, and by of female courage, and a celebration of my second trimester I had already long the ways in which, in adversity, women outstripped the recommended weight make and remake themselves. It’s a gain, but otherwise my normal life conmemoir of birth and rebirth; of care and tinued without much interruption. If I lost compassion. I wanted to share what sleep, it wasn’t my high-risk status that together we learnt about survival, and kept me awake, but the two tiny little In her new book, Francesca Segal about fear and friendship. boxers, delivering spirited jabs and upper I write this in a position I could never recalls how, after the premature cuts to my lungs. The most obvious then have imagined: typing one-handed, advantage of my scheduled C-section – birth of her twins, she drew courage the other arm cradling a wobbly necked still months away – seemed that I could newborn. She feels enormous; delivered from a circle of generous women book a blow-dry and a gel manicure for full-term, at three times the weight of the night before. her tiny big sisters. But she is no less a Then, at 29 weeks pregnant and with no warning, I began to miracle. Everything about this second pregnancy was different: bleed. And bleed. At exactly 30 weeks I delivered my identical my energy a little lower, my anxiety a little higher. But there was daughters by emergency caesarean. They weighed an impossibly something else altered, too – faith, and hope, embodied in the tiny two pounds each. They couldn’t regulate their own body tem- women whose friendship helped us get through the worst and will perature, couldn’t feed, couldn’t breathe. They had no immunity to now always buoy and cheer us through the best. Together we have fight infection. And for the 56 days that followed I sat almost been tested and together we know our strength. It is just a unmoving between two intensive-care incubators, willing my little WhatsApp group. But they are the tribe of women who taught me girls to live. The women I met there sustained me. how to raise my tribe of girls. In the expressing-room – the Milking Shed, as we called it – we ‘Mother Ship’ by Francesca Segal (£14.99, Vintage) is published on 6 June. were writers and lawyers and supermarket employees, on the dole, first-time parents, or stay-at-home mothers to five other children. It Francesca Segal. became totally normal to walk in to find Chavi, an orthodox Jewish Above: her woman so modest she wore a headscarf on top of her sheitel, sharing daughters Celeste (left) and a packet of kosher chocolate-chip cookies with Fatima, who wore a Raffaela full niqab, everyone’s breasts on full display. Two teenage mothers passed through, and in my first week in hospital I met Jojo, a woman in her middle fifties who had undergone fertility treatment in Ghana and now had triplet boys. Her husband had taken his overdue retirement to take care of them. Most of these mothers stayed on the ward two days, three days, a week at most. But those of us whose babies were longer-term inpatients were very soon bound together. Kemisha taught me to raise my voice, to be an advocate for my daughters, and on any given shift was able to rattle off her top-five list of nurses ranked by kindness and competence. Sophie returned me to one of my true loves: black coffee. My babies were having intravenous caffeine anyway, Sophie
LABOUR OF LOVE
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
This mo nth sh
piece London r e t as M , ight on Bice Laz l a s zar ine
Left: Lazzari’s ‘Untitled’ (1965). Above: the artist in Rome in 1957
‘A
Y
E AU B F T O S i
LINE
ART
By FRANCES HEDGES
s I got older I realised that I was holding onto too many useless things; that one mark could be more sufficient than three,’ said the Italian artist Bice Lazzari in 1980, a year before her death. In the course of her career, which spanned more than five decades, she sought to distil complex emotions into the simplest possible set of lines and colours, creating minimalist yet deeply meditative works. Growing up in Venice, Lazzari had initially trained as an instrumentalist at the prestigious Benedetto Marcello Conservatory. This imbued her with a lifelong passion that was later to manifest itself in her art, with its rhythmic patterns that recall musical notation. While her early paintings focused on figuration, after a move to Rome in 1935 she began to explore the possibilities of geometric expression, and by the 1960s had developed a unique, pared-back style built on the power of the line. Her work has a wonderfully atmospheric quality that subtly evokes the Venetian landscape of her youth, where she saw soaring Gothic edifices reflected in the swirling lagoon. Despite achieving some success in her native country, including winning a prize at the 1950 Venice Biennale, Lazzari never quite received the level of international recognition she deserved. ‘She was a rather introverted character – not one for bravado and selfpublicising,’ says Niamh Coghlan, the sales director at Richard Saltoun Gallery, which will present a solo exhibition dedicated to Masterpiece London as part of ‘100% Women’, its year-long programme celebrating female artists. ‘Yet she was an incredibly sophisticated painter in terms of her mastery of the line and the way she creates space. Her reappraisal is long overdue.’ Masterpiece London (www.masterpiecefair.com) runs from 27 June to 3 July.
T H R E E TO S E E A trio of female abstract artists to look out for at this year’s Masterpiece fair
Carla Accardi at Partners & Mucciaccia The late Sicilian abstract painter, who experimented with shape, colour and new materials, is remembered as an influential member of the Italian avant-garde movement. Carla Accardi’s ‘Piccolo Ovale Viola’ (1959)
Eileen Agar at the Redfern Gallery With a social circle that included Pablo Picasso, Leonora Carrington and Lee Miller, Agar drew inspiration from both surrealism and abstraction in her paintings, sculptures and collages. Eileen Agar’s ‘Portrait’ (1949) All artworks, price on request.
Bridget Riley at Sims Reed Gallery Browse a selection of vivid screenprints by the op-art pioneer, whose highly patterned artworks are as dazzling as they are disorienting. Bridget Riley’s ‘Between the Two’ (2005)
PHOTOGRAPHS: © THE ESTATE OF THE ARTIST. COURTESY OF RICHARD SALTOUN GALLERY, LONDON, COPYRIGHT ALFREDO LIBERO FERRETTI, COURTESY THE ESTATE OF THE ARTIST, COURTESY PARTNERS & MUCCIACCIA, COURTESY THE REDFERN GALLERY, COURTESY SIMS REED GALLERY, ALEX ISRAEL/PHOTOGRAPH MARTIN WONG, TSCHABALALA SELF, JONAS WOOD, PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD AVEDON, © THE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION, BERRY BERENSON PERKINS
All artworks, price on request. Left: Bice Lazzari’s ‘Untitled’ (1972). Far left: her ‘Misura e Poesia’ (1950)
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
TALKING POINTS ACCESSORIES
Right: Alex Israel’s ‘Wave’ (2018). Far left: Tschabalala Self ’s ‘Sapphire’ (2015). Below centre: a detail from Jonas Wood’s ‘Landscape Pot 2’ (2014)
FASHIONING AN ICON
Louis Vuitton’s timeless Capucines bag is reinvented by six dynamic artists ‘I work with a lot of instinct and intuition […] Perhaps that’s something that designers share with artists – a feeling of urgency that we have to express our ideas,’ said Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton’s creative director, in conversation with Bazaar’s editor-in-chief Justine Picardie last year. Ghesquière’s interest in exploring the shared landscape of art and fashion manifests itself in every one of his collections, including a soon-to-be-unveiled range of handbags designed in collaboration with six leading contemporary artists, each of whom has offered a unique interpretation of the classic Capucines model.
FILM
With its palette of sunset shades and surferinspired wave motif, LA-based Alex Israel’s vibrant creation alludes to the mythology of laid-back Californian cool; Tschabalala Self has deconstructed the Louis Vuitton logo using a combination of intricate embroidery and collage techniques; and the American artist Jonas Wood has adorned his bag with overlapping, plant-like forms reminiscent of Henri Matisse’s cut-outs. FH Each bag in the Artycapucines Collection will be available from late June, in a limited edition of 300, from Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.com).
SCENE STEALER The triumphs and tribulations of Roy Halston
After following Raf Simons’ creation of a magical couture collection in Dior and I, the director Frédéric Tcheng has delved further back in fashion history for a new documentary about Roy Halston. His film uses rare archive footage to investigate the American designer’s meteoric rise to fame, from his early days as a milliner (he appeared on Bazaar’s September 1961 cover placing one of his hats on Sophia Loren, shown right), to his success as a couturier, dressing such stars as Lauren Bacall and Elizabeth Taylor. Tcheng also catalogues Halston’s fall from grace, catalysed by an ill-judged partnership with JC Penney. The film is at its most captivating when revealing the freewheeling spontaneity of Halston’s showmanship. At the 1972 American Fashion Critics’ Awards, he had the actress Pat Ast explode out of a huge birthday cake, and the following year Liza Minnelli opened his show at the Palace of Versailles with a rendition of ‘Bonjour, Paris’. Roy Halston and ‘His clothes danced with you,’ said Minnelli of his signature Liza Minnelli sweeping bias-cuts, known for their fluid, simple elegance. Twenty-nine years after his death, his strikingly feminine aesthetic remains as relevant as ever. YO ‘Halston’ is in cinemas now.
July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 87
TALKING POINTS LITERATURE
BR AVE NEW WORLDS
As Ursula K Le Guin’s best-known work of fiction is republished, Erica Wagner revisits her revolutionary fantasy realms In front of me is a new – and beautifully Ursula K Le illustrated – edition of Ursula K Le Guin’s Guin in 1975 A Wizard of Earthsea. I’ve pulled out the battered paperback copy I’ve had since I was 11 years old and set them side by side on my desk. The old book, which tells the story of a great sorcerer discovering his power, remains my talisman – a tale that opened a new world for me, one in which magic springs from the power of words. Like everything by its extraordinary author, who died last year at the age of 88, A Wizard of Earthsea is evergreen. ‘The island of Gont, a single mountain that lifts its peak a mile above the storm-racked Northeast Sea, is a land famous for wizards.’ The novel, first published in 1968, invites us to enter another reality – the fictional archipelago of Earthsea – with its clear, rhythmic opening sentence. Its protagonist is the humble goatherd Sparrowhawk, who, on discovering that he possesses magical skills, is sent off to Roke Island to learn the ways of the true sorcerers. (Le Guin was, of course, in the vanguard with the idea of a school for wizards, paving the way for JK Rowling and many others.) Sparrowhawk’s story unfolds further in the next two books of the original Earthsea trilogy – The Tombs of Atuan and The Farthest Shore – which followed in the early 1970s. A Wizard of Earthsea may be a boy’s story, but like all great works of literature, its message is universal, speaking of self-discovery and Right: Yoko Ono. Below: Yayoi Kusama. Far right: Frida Kahlo
how we must all fight the demons within us. Le Guin’s ability to enter the minds of her male characters is a quality that is in itself inspiring for both readers and writers – a reminder that there are no limits to creative thinking, that empathy can cross what seem like insurmountable barriers of gender and culture. When readers discover work that speaks to them, they will make enormous imaginative leaps to cover the distance between themselves and the characters with whom they identify. I didn’t read about Sparrowhawk; I was Sparrowhawk. When he discovers his ‘true name’ is Ged, I discovered my true name was Ged. Le Guin’s father, Alfred Kroeber, was an anthropologist; she was raised to question how societies functioned, and why some differ from others. Her work asks us to consider: what if the way we live now is not the only way? What else might we imagine? What happens when we enter the worlds of those who are not as we are? Science fiction and fantasy writing was very much a male preserve when Le Guin entered the fray, and liable to be regarded as a sideline to ‘real’ literature. The critical acclaim she received proved this was not so: Le Guin was showered with awards, including the National Book Foundation Medal for Distinguished Contribution to American Letters in 2014, and in 2016 she joined the short list of authors to be published in their lifetimes by the Library of America. Many of her books now seem extraordinarily prescient: The Left Hand of Darkness, published in 1969, imagines a planet whose inhabitants are ambisexual, slipping easily between male and female, while 1972’s The Word for World is Forest remains a powerful ecological and anticolonial fable. Le Guin was a fascinating and straight-talking woman, too: Arwen Curry’s documentary Worlds of Ursula K Le Guin, which appeared last year, was a fine tribute, with contributions from Neil Gaiman, David Mitchell, Margaret Atwood and Michael Chabon. The range of authors to which her work appealed is striking, a mark of her versatility and power. ‘She was one of the giants,’ said the novelist George RR Martin when she died. So she was, and so she still is: this is true magic. ‘A Wizard of Earthsea’ by Ursula K Le Guin, with illustrations by Charles Vess (£14.99, Gollancz), is published on 27 June.
BOOKS
THE ART OF ST YLE ‘You can retell your life by the shape, weight, colour and smell of those clothes in your closet,’ said Louise Bourgeois in 2008. The sculptor’s words encapsulate the theme at the heart of Terry Newman’s new book, which explores the intrinsic role fashion has played in the evolution of more than 40 artists. From Yoko Ono’s trademark glasses to Yayoi Kusama’s hypnotising polka-dots and Frida Kahlo’s flamboyant Mexican tunics, the sartorial choices of these influential creative women are as much a part of their legacy as their groundbreaking work. ELLEN PEIRSON-HAGGER ‘Legendary Artists and the Clothes They Wore’ by Terry Newman (£25, Harper Design) is published on 27 June.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, SARAH HOGAN/INTERIOR ARCHIVE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Place mats, £354 for five Valerie Objects at Trouva
£485 each Bottega Veneta
£695 Rockett St George
Wallpaper, £62 a metre Blithfield £816 Moroso at Clippings
£115 for two Cabana Magazine at Matchesfashion.com
Collage, from a selection Ben McLaughlin at Wilson Stephens & Jones
INTERIORS
ECLECTIC AESTHETIC
About £2,160 1st Dibs
About £20 Jansen+co at Serax
Spice up your life with a mélange of bold prints and tutti-frutti colours Compiled by SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD and MARISSA BOURKE
From £16 each The Basket Room
Rugs, £1,050 each Elisa Ossino at Amini
£195 Jochen Holz at the New Craftsmen
£110 Christina Lundseen at Matchesfashion. com
Collage, from a selection Ben McLaughlin at Wilson Stephens & Jones
Basket, about £125 Maison Sarah Lavoine
£610 Hermès
£6,100 1st Dibs
Background carpet, from £1,650 Floor Story
|
About £775 Muller van Severen
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
HOROSCOPES The future revealed: your essential guide to JULY By PETER WATSON
CANCER
CAPRICORN
An unexpected turn of events could mean that you and somebody close have to rethink long-term plans. Assuming you remain on the same side as one another and you can discuss every option or alternative, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t end up with something as good as, if not better than, the original idea. LUCKY DAY 3rd – your ego is given a massive boost by unlikely fans.
You might be the first to admit that your professional or monetary situation needs clarification, but an intensely personal matter is about to become your main priority. When you weigh up how much could be sacrificed unless your private affairs are put right, you’ll be in no doubt as to what you must do next. Keep a clear head. LUCKY DAY 19th – time shared with a partner brings unexpected joy.
LEO
AQUARIUS
Crucial messages must be delivered with care. Mercury entering another retrograde phase means it’s easy to be misunderstood when you’re managing something of economic or political importance. If there’s doubt at all over data you intend to share, it’s vital that you hold fast until everything has been checked and double-checked. LUCKY DAY 11th – clever schemes being developed show great promise.
Although you couldn’t be accused of having deserted your post, you’ve been less than conscientious in one area of responsibility of late. Make best use of the Solar Eclipse on 2 July to identify places in which deficits are beginning to show, but avoid becoming so intent on getting everything right that you drive yourself crazy. LUCKY DAY 9th – by reaching out to an ally, you achieve peace at last.
VIRGO
PISCES
Listen to too many people’s opinions on the way you’re handling relationship concerns and you’ll become lost and confused. Better to find an appropriate time to thrash out the main issues with the other person involved. If you’re inclined to speak in tones that are more blunt and direct than usual, feel free to do so. LUCKY DAY 25th – friends support you to the benefit of all.
So overwhelmed might you be with your concern for a friend or companion that you’ll lose sight of your obligations. Obviously, you must act responsibly and refuse to be overly distracted. Sometimes, we must put our feelings on hold until the opportunity arises to deal with them properly and privately. LUCKY DAY 18th – family news warms your heart.
LIBRA
ARIES
Not all the signals coming through with regard to a professional or financial undertaking can be trusted. So it is absolutely crucial that you scrutinise every bit of information before agreeing to anything. It could be hugely advantageous, provided it proves to be blemish-free, but this is not a time to take chances. LUCKY DAY 14th – the return of a lost item brings immense relief.
Loved ones will, quite justifiably, suggest that you should all be spending more quality time together. However, you’ll feel conflicted when unforeseen demands are made on you in terms of your commitments in the wider world. Certain individuals will have to be taught that they don’t have exclusive rights to you and your time. LUCKY DAY 7th – a stranger’s invitation causes a flurry of excitement.
SCORPIO
TAURUS
Having spread your wings recently, you’ll feel duty-bound to tend to matters near to home. Capitalise on the Lunar Eclipse in mid-July, enabling you to access your deepest feelings towards relatives, peers or neighbours who might feel you’ve abandoned them recently. You don’t have to kowtow to them, but they probably have a point. LUCKY DAY 1st – those singing your praises add to your success.
Those trying to influence your handling of your business dealings or private life may be taking a risk. With the Sun opposing Saturn, you’re likely to put barriers in place to protect you from unwelcome comments you find unhelpful and invasive. Keep things in perspective, and avoid causing a rift over something relatively trivial. LUCKY DAY 17th – travel plans are changed… for the better.
SAGITTARIUS
GEMINI
Evidence bubbling to the surface will suggest that the integrity of a workmate or associate could be in doubt. Initially your inclination will be to judge, or perhaps attack, whoever is involved. But shortly afterwards, you’ll realise that there are several possible explanations for what’s been going on. You must make no hasty decisions. LUCKY DAY 23rd – answers are found to an ongoing mystery.
Frustrated though you may be with the way in which business or property issues have been handled, you’ve no right to punish those doing their best to achieve the right outcome. If you overreact you’ll lose the support of one individual who has done everything possible to deliver what’s expected. Apologies may be in order. LUCKY DAY 21st – solutions are provided for a financial puzzle.
22 June – 23 July
22 December – 20 January
24 July – 23 August
21 January – 19 February
24 August – 23 September
20 February – 20 March
24 September – 23 October
21 March – 20 April
24 October – 22 November
21 April – 21 May
23 November – 21 December
22 May – 21 June
For weekly updates, visit www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/horoscopes. 90 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
NEXT MONTH, FREE WITH
‘An absolute in-flight must-have, this is my favourite quenching mask for healthy-looking, plump skin.’ KATY YOUNG
Beauty director
PHOTOGRAPH: LUCKY IF SHARP. *GIFT AVAILABLE WITH NEWSSTAND COPIES ONLY
WORTH £15 EACH
Receive a free Sarah Chapman face mask*
THE AUGUST ISSUE, ON SALE 4 JULY
LY 201 U
9
PHOTOGRAPHS: PAMELA HANSON, GETTY IMAGES. ARTWORK BY AMY BLACKER. BIKINI TOP, £265; BIKINI BOTTOMS, £295, BOTH ERES. SEE OVERLEAF AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
J
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
This month, we embark on a voyage of discovery, as Ashley Graham reveals the story of her journey from bowl-haired schoolgirl to the inspirational woman we know today. Meanwhile, Cindy Sherman shares the secrets of her transformations through art; we investigate the enchanting phenomenon of modern magic; set forth on a poetic expedition to Venice on the world’s most famous train; and explore Burgh Island, Agatha Christie’s favourite British retreat
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THE JOY OF LIVING
Inspiring, uplifting and empowering, Ashley Graham is changing the shape of fashion, and in doing so, transforming the way women feel about themselves. The supermodel, activist and entrepreneur talks to Avril Mair about the family ties that formed her; the motivations that drive her; the faith that sustains her; and the optimism that can lead us all to greater heights and lasting happiness Photographs by PAMELA HANSON Styled by LEITH CLARK
Ashley Graham wears swimsuit, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: swimsuit, £220, Heidi Klein. OPPOSITE: swimsuit, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A
shley Graham is what happens when we abandon all our beauty ideals. In case there was any doubt, that’s a positive and powerful thing. A trailblazer, groundbreaker, disruptor, provocateur, and, of course, a supermodel: she’s a woman who wants to be heard as well as seen, a poster girl for inclusivity who hopes to raise others up even as her own star ascends to the highest. But this woman changing the shape of fashion has to be seen to be believed. While she is extraordinarily beautiful in photographs, to understand why she is Ashley Graham, you need to get to grips with her compelling physicality and charismatic presence. So here she is on a Friday morning, fresh from an early work-out, with wet hair and a bare face, shifting the air in the room as she enters a health-food café in New York’s West Village. Heads turn. Eyes widen. Jaws drop. A young woman sitting next to me – who will say to Ashley, as we eventually get up to leave, ‘I just wanted to tell you that I love you’ – emits an audible gasp of excitement. This is the power of someone who unapologetically, unashamedly, owns her own fabulousness. To meet her is to fall in love with her, hopelessly and completely. To meet her is also to question why the hell we bought into those old-fashioned ideals in the first place: the catwalk parade of sad, starving teenagers; the airbrushed editorial facsimile of perfection; the unrealistic, unachievable standards that no one could hope to meet. ‘It’s beautiful to show your real true self,’ she says. ‘I want to be an example to allow women to be who they are.’ And so she is, unquestionably. She is now a speaker, a TV presenter, a writer, a designer and a podcast host, as well as an activist, but her focus has never wavered. Ashley Graham is someone who knows what she needs to do in order to make the change – she has to be the change. Here, in her own inspirational words, is how she’s achieving it.
My family are so important to me. Growing up, there was never a lack of appreciation for our appearance because my mum, two sisters and I all looked similar: we were very big-boned, had very loud voices and were very outspoken. I was always told to be proud of who I was; to never try and be less than that. I was not the class beauty as a child. My gosh, no. I had a bowl haircut, big round glasses and played every sport. I was a US size 12 from the age of 12 but I never felt unattractive.
‘We still lack diversity on the runway, but I appreciate the designers who are pioneers for change’
My mum said my body would change someone’s life one day. It was during a terrible time in my life when I’d just moved to New York and was over everybody telling me I was too fat. She said: ‘You have to fight through this.’ Thank God I listened to her. I thought: ‘OK, screw it, I’m not going to lose weight for anybody. I’m going to be healthy, I’m going to go to the gym and I’m going to live my life right.’
I’ve always been very honest in sharing the insecurities I have. Cellulite, back fat… It opened a door for other women to share their insecurities. If we all feel the same way, why are we stressing about it? I’ve never gone to therapy but having these conversations really does help. It’s important to have allies. It’s important to have positive people in your life. It’s also very important not to have ‘yes’ people in your life. My husband constantly challenges me. That’s one of the reasons why I respect him so much – he’s never going to let me settle. He’s always helping me to strive for something that’s bigger than I am. Why am I here? Growing up in a Christian household, I was constantly questioning what my purpose in life was. I believe it’s changing the fashion industry. The 16-year-old Ashley would not have believed all this was possible. What I’m most proud of is that today’s teenagers are witnessing the progress towards more inclusion in the industry. We still lack diversity on the runway, but I appreciate designers like Prabal Gurung, Christian Siriano and Michael Kors, who have been pioneers for these changes. I feel hopeful that things will continue to change.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Shirt, £247, Marina Rinaldi x Ashley Graham. Bikini top, about £120; bikini bottoms, about £125, both Mara Hoffman
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: cashmere wrap, £1,895, Gabriela Hearst. OPPOSITE: bikini top, £265; bikini bottoms, £295, both Eres
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk tulle foulard, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. Swimsuit (worn underneath), £220, Heidi Klein. OPPOSITE: bikini top, £145; bikini bottoms, £115, both Marysia. Silk shirt, £1,600, Dior
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk dress, £1,365, Marina Rinaldi. OPPOSITE: cotton scarf, £370, Dior
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
I have had to work harder than everybody else because of my size. I’ve always had to suck it up. If you’re the kind of person who’s never been glamorised in fashion then you have to justify why you’re meant to be there through your efforts. You have to prove yourself. I also know that my mother would appear out of nowhere and slap me round the head if she heard me complain. When women see me in a magazine, I want them to feel worthy. I want them to feel seen, heard, appreciated and valued. I also want them to feel so empowered that they can accomplish anything. Has it been hard? I’d prefer to say that it’s been rewarding. Can I congratulate myself? Yes. I have had to learn to take a step back and acknowledge that things that were never possible are now possible. I’m so proud that young girls are finally looking in the mirror and saying: ‘I love you’. Labels can be divisive. How you identify is up to you to decide, not anyone else, which is important to remember. If you identify as plus-size, that’s fine. I started using the term curvy, not because I am no longer a part of the plus-size community, but because body positivity is a broader community than we can imagine. There are girls who are size eight who sometimes say they can’t find clothes, and there are girls who are size 24 who are saying the exact same thing. We have to cater to all types – not only women, but men too. I still call myself a model. I’m also a designer, a host, an entrepreneur and a body activist, but modelling gave me purpose. I constantly ask myself: ‘What are you doing to contribute change? What are you doing to make other people’s voices heard?’ You have to stand for something. You really, truly have to hold yourself accountable. I want to advocate for equal representation for all curvy women – all sizes, races and ages. In talking about my size, I have to remember that my body type has been around for a long time and that women of colour have always embraced and celebrated their curves. Now, there are white faces connected to curves and I feel a big sense of responsibility there – those women have been highly disregarded by the fashion industry.
Do I care what people say about me? Yes and no. I listen to my fans and I value their feedback. I disregard the haters. Their words don’t hurt me. The conversations we’re having are meant to educate; essentially, it’s seeing the entire perspective of beauty and asking society to think about everything more inclusively. As an example, I just posted some photos from Gigi Hadid’s birthday party on Instagram – I had worn this oversized denim dress with thigh-high boots and my chunkiness was hanging over the top of the boot. Someone commented: ‘Your thighs are bursting out of them.’ I decided to write back and say: ‘Yes, my thighs were bursting out and I felt sexy AF.’ Those are what I like to call teachable moments; a way to let women know that they should be standing up for themselves too. The way that people look at women’s bodies and decide if they like them or not is so ugly to me. The audacity of someone saying: ‘This is what’s wrong with you.’ Even Helena Christensen! I was with her on the night she wore that bustier and I want to tell you, she looked so hot! I’m super-healthy but I’m still judged.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: georgette dress, about £155, Rodarte x Universal Standard. OPPOSITE: swimsuit, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Cotton dress, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. See Stockists for details. Hair by Kevin Ryan at Art & Commerce, using Unite. Make-up by Lisa Houghton at Home Agency, using Revlon. Manicure by Momo at See Management. Stylist’s assistants: Stefaniya Chekalina and Tilly Wheating. Production by Jenny Landey Productions
PAMELA HANSON
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
People keep talking about me as the next Oprah. I am not mad at that. She’s the best at what she does and there will never be another Oprah. She’s inspired me to say: ‘I’m Ashley and I’m doing this my way.’ The best thing someone could say about me is to recognise my kindness. I think kindness should come before anything. It’s a very underrated virtue.
Social media has created a community. It’s also allowed me to connect with many more people than I could have before, opening up a global dialogue. I take pride in being authentic and relatable; I’m always going to be myself. I honestly wish that I had someone to look up to when I was growing up who was like me, because it would have made me even more comfortable in my skin at an earlier age. When I look in the mirror now, I see a fearless woman. I see a leader. I see a bold, hard-working woman who has turned ‘no’ into ‘yes’. I also see an intelligent woman who doesn’t let insecurities or challenges hold her back. I recognise my round arms, my cellulite, my belly, my beautiful curves and I also recognise that I’m celebrating them and embracing them. I have a Google alert on my name. I don’t know any person in my position who doesn’t. Kids are just not on my radar. Not now. Eventually, yes. I’ve been married for nine years in August but I feel like I’m still too young to have them. I’ve got too many businesses still to build.
I’m proud that I know I’m going to leave a legacy behind. I’ve met so many women who’ve cried in my arms and told me that by sharing my story and my struggle, I’ve allowed them to share theirs. You know, I’ve been the girl alone on the bathroom floor, crying my eyes out because I didn’t think I was good enough. When you meet someone who has given you the authority to say ‘I’m better than I thought,’ that’s a big deal. It just takes a couple of people stamping their feet and saying: ‘This isn’t the way that we’re going to be treated any more.’ My faith has given me the strength to say no. If I’m not comfortable, or if something doesn’t align with my mission, then I’m not participating. My faith is my balance. My husband and I like to pray together, because in the Bible it talks about when two or more are gathered, God is in the midst. Whatever your higher power or beliefs, I think it’s important to have that quiet moment of reflection. And if anyone can get me into Kanye West’s Sunday Service, I’ll be on the plane to LA. I need to go have some worship.
‘We have to raise women to believe in themselves, to know that they have a voice, that insecurities aren’t a bad thing’
Every year I set a goal that seems impossible and then I just go and achieve it. For me right now, it’s a priority to own a company for my different clothing and lifestyle collections. I’m also figuring out ways to spread the message of inclusion and acceptance. I want to create more seats at the table for women and for underrepresented groups. Can I take this ‘beauty beyond size’ movement that is about confidence and expand it to all areas of women’s lives? How can I do that? We have to raise young women to believe in themselves, to know that they have a voice, that their bodies shouldn’t hold them back, that insecurities aren’t a bad thing.
I am personally inspired by many bold women who empower each other. One of them is Cindy Eckert, who created the female version of Viagra and then sold her company for a billion dollars. Now, through her company, the Pink Ceiling, she’s investing in other women and helping them grow their businesses. Also Gayle King, the journalist and editor, has been a great mentor. I text her questions about how to get the best stories from someone when I’m interviewing them for my podcast.
It’s never just been about the money. It’s about the mission. Every day I say an affirmation to myself: I am bold, I am brilliant, I am beautiful, I am worthy of all. It’s like a quick shot in the arm. I got it, I got it, I got it. I tell myself, ‘You are worthy of this’ and I remind myself that this mantra started when I was 18 years old and here I am at 31. This is what has helped guide me. This is what reminds me that all of us can achieve much more than we ever thought we were capable of.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
POETRY IN MOTION
On a journey aboard the fabled Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the poet Greta Bellamacina composes a quartet in verse, en route across Europe to the legendary Hotel Cipriani Photographs by TOM CRAIG
Styled by LEITH CLARK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Greta Bellamacina beginning her journey, wearing silk shirt, £1,380; wool skirt with leather belt, £2,070, both Louis Vuitton
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk twill dress, £1,450; matching skirt, £1,650, both Fendi. Straw boater, £195, Lock & Co. Gold and ruby earrings, from a selection, Jessica McCormack. OPPOSITE: cashmere jacket, £2,365; pleated dress, £1,520, both Max Mara. Straw hat, £445, Lock & Co
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
The first together is the morning itself the marrying wish of dew the first dance of the grass, renewed like a child’s clock. The early light unaware of the low hum that entwines the mood of the air — strangely worshiping in high memory cries. And we remember the ghosts better in the morning, the rising light that is always a grace on the back of the things you love scattered through the house like Lego. The bed remains ancient in its ritual of worship a personal attack against strangers made up of all its own Trojan wars hung in literature, un-debated. It is easy to believe that it is a privilege to grow old in the morning and that age is young and all that is above will remain immortal regardless of loneliness.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: boarding the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, with monogrammed cases, from £2,050, Louis Vuitton. OPPOSITE: leather skirt, £2,125; satin jacket, £13,000; velvet jumper, £725; leather ankle-boots, £895; leather shoulder-bag, £1,250, all Balenciaga. Monogrammed hat box, £3,550; matching vanity case, £3,650, both Louis Vuitton
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE and OPPOSITE: silk dress, £9,100, Valentino
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: knit dress with lace collar, £2,020, Ermanno Scervino. OPPOSITE: silk shirt, £500, Etro. Gold and diamond earrings, £8,900, Jessica McCormack
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
When you wake the cities you love are somewhere behind you, all of Europe is a flooded dream of collective beauty the weather is drawing squares A jewellery box of godless dreams encircling light brings Babylon with it it holds the secret history of pain it holds the yellowing embrace of strangers carrying away the people who love us suitcases filled with rivers to a third paradise “Love feeds the flame of age,” Michelangelo holds you and we disappear into a cloud I think of my own children and how they only exist in images of colour How their eyes carry bells ringing out to new futures, new hope signs of new languages, outside the mountains hang a string of glass stars the oceans are filled with reason they reflect us in their wake before bed you discover you are only at Paris the slowness is flowering the forests lean into tracks they whisper broken sounds of freedom the morning is somewhere else at night the flowers read the day in fallen things the train comes with a forgotten dictionary of latin and what was before latin? it frees you all the same that no country can escape the need to move closer.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool-mix cardigan, £5,100; muslin dress, £8,620, both Chanel. Gold and diamond ring, £5,700, Chanel Fine Jewellery. OPPOSITE: crepe de Chine dress, £2,795, Miu Miu
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Silk dress, £4,170; silk jacket, £2,430, both Ralph Lauren Collection. Leather heels ( just seen), £445, Stuart Weitzman. Gold and diamond earrings, £8,900, Jessica McCormack
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Silk dress, £4,170; silk jacket, £2,430, both Ralph Lauren Collection
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Poplin coat, £1,800; wool beret, £225; lace gloves, £170; metal, gold and crystal choker, £2,210, all Gucci
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk shirt, £500; matching trousers, £675, both Etro. Wool and cashmere cardigan, £2,600, Dior. Gold and diamond earrings, £8,900, Jessica McCormack. OPPOSITE: silk dress, £6,200, Hermès. Sunglasses, £215, Grey Ant. Pearl glasses chain, £220, Frame Chain
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Silk dress, £3,700, Valentino
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Thunder first, locked up in babble rain-eyed gods on their backs you staying in the forefront, black ribbon, angel headless, four standing roses and a background of wind-split you died in America for the last time Jason Molina holding all the horses behind the last slip-dawn rain I cannot live in a place that doesn’t save its people in time I cannot live in a place that doesn’t live out its own odyssey so the myths are paralysed the myths are luminous riddles the horses are all full the saints are blood cannons love is a vacuum mist a showed weekend of dreams on repeat a distant screen to both worlds a second think to the running light 10 seconds where morning is at one with daytime clasping in the change of lightness lugging the stones of womanliness peaking and popping when everything breaks 10 seconds where morning is at one with daytime a spin of patter, a direction that needs no explanation downwards to the earth a curtain of forward and back a slide of swan dance swaying in animal timing the last joy to morning is the memory the animals are laughing grasping forward they escape light continues to slide out the gods are asleep now and far away a preview of reflections border the world night is lowered to day and the actors arrive worrying their costumes.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk dress with cape, £5,100; silk under-dress, £1,640, both Louis Vuitton. OPPOSITE: monogrammed case, £2,050; matching vanity case, £3,650; matching hat box, £3,550, all Louis Vuitton
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Wool coat, about £3,450; silk blouse, about £1,200, both Givenchy
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Cotton coat, £2,825; silk jumper, £1,175; leather boots, £720, all Bottega Veneta. Gold and ruby earrings, from a selection, Jessica McCormack. Straw hat, £2,575, Lock & Co
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Jacquard jacket; matching skirt; crepe de Chine shirt, all from a selection; embellished calf-skin slingbacks, £675, all Dolce & Gabbana
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Crepe de Chine dress, £2,165, Emilia Wickstead
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Sequin and lace dress, £2,695, Erdem. Suede flats, £650, Jimmy Choo
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk dress with cape, £5,100; silk under-dress, £1,640, both Louis Vuitton. OPPOSITE: embroidered tulle and lace dress, £1,650, Burberry. Calf-leather sandals, £395, Sophia Webster. Tights, stylist’s own
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: swimsuit, £150, Solid & Striped. OPPOSITE: velvet top, £940; brass bracelet, from a selection, both Chloé. Sunglasses, £435, Cutler and Gross. See Stockists for details. Hair by Seb Bascle at Calliste Agency. Make-up by Georgina Graham at Management Artists, using Chanel Vision d’Asie: Lumière et Contraste and L’Eau Micellaire. Stylist’s assistant: Holly Gorst. Produced by Shiny Projects. Model: Greta Bellamacina at Viva London
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
The uncontrollable renewing of sunlight that is fluorescent and parched by the inherited sun emblazing us closer to our destination inside it you recall Venice you remember the rooms like black sunflowers their necks are filled with gondolas water touches right up to the street like the face of a horse at a fence. pigeons fall in St Mark’s Square like applause stone Madonna and her girls are made like this, they remain immortal columns of stone in a lake. a city made out of a glove box where all the gloves carry the great will of hands the many-ing metaphors for hands themselves, the trampled will of all hands which holds you until you hold them back, and how their surprisingly slender mightiness is mistaken for protection you take hold of it anyway.
Velvet dress, £4,335, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Suede flats, £650, Jimmy Choo. Tights, stylist’s own. Travel with Belmond to Venice: start your journey in London aboard the Belmond British Pullman, before joining the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. End your stay at the iconic Belmond Hotel Cipriani on the island of Giudecca. www.belmond.com
TOM CRAIG
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THE ADVENTURE OF BURGH ISLAND The model Damaris Goddrie follows in the footsteps of Agatha Christie, Noël Coward, Winston Churchill and Wallis Simpson to the beguiling art deco hotel on the Devon coast that has inspired mysteries, romance and endless escapades Photographs by JOSH SHINNER Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Mohair jumper, £455; cotton shirt, £640; wool top, £605; cotton skirt, £735; belts, from £300; patent boots, £930, all Prada
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool coat, £4,225; cotton jumper, £730; silk skirt, £1,725, all Louis Vuitton. OPPOSITE: padded coat, £2,750; cashmere and cotton trousers, £975; sandals, from a selection, all Balenciaga
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk dress, £590, Longchamp. Leather brogues, £650, Holland & Holland. Tights, stylist’s own. OPPOSITE: crepe dress, £2,460; jacquard knit top, £905, both Chloé
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool and cotton jacket, £1,800; matching skirt, £790; fil coupé shirt, £790; embroidered velvet tie, £1,420; tights, £170; leather shoes, £615, all Gucci. OPPOSITE: silk jacquard jacket, £2,650; matching trousers, £2,300; silk shirt, £1,100, all Giorgio Armani
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: crepe de Chine dress, £1,835; stretch body, £550, both Michael Kors Collection. Leather brogues, £665, Church’s. OPPOSITE: silk mix shirt, £1,250; matching skirt, £2,100, both Givenchy
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: pleated dress, from a selection; cashmere jumper, £920, both Dior. Leather boots, £780, Valentino Garavani. OPPOSITE: wool jumper, £1,050; cotton shirt, £570; cotton trousers, £1,205, all Miu Miu. Leather brogues, £490, Church’s
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool coat, £1,990; silk dress, £1,490, both Burberry. OPPOSITE: embellished jumper, £1,720; pleated skirt, £1,010, both Ermanno Scervino. Leather brogues, £650, Holland & Holland
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: organza dress, from a selection; leather heels, £1,080; metal earrings, £1,105; metal necklaces, from £3,388, all Chanel. OPPOSITE: cashmere jumper, £1,425; leather skirt, £3,585, both Loro Piana. Leather boots, £560, Church’s
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: silk mix jumper, £435; cotton trousers, £360, both Max Mara. Wellington boots, £450, Holland & Holland. OPPOSITE: cashmere jumper, £1,950; matching skirt, £1,700, both Hermès
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool jumper, £2,100; tulle skirt, £4,200, both Valentino. Leather shoes, £595, Valentino Garavani. OPPOSITE: wool jacket, £1,985; silk dress, £850; tights, £150, all Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THIS PAGE: wool cape, £3,900, Valentino. Leather heels, £685, Valentino Garavani. OPPOSITE: swimsuit, £134, Maison Lejaby
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Chiffon dress, £3,450, Fendi. Leather brogues, £490, Church’s. See Stockists for details. Hair by Paul Donovan at CLM Hair & Make-up, using Redken. Make-up by Anita Keeling at One Represents, using Bobbi Brown. Stylist’s assistant: Holly Gorst. Production by Shiny Projects. Model: Damaris Goddrie at Viva London. With thanks to Burgh Island Hotel (www.burghisland.com)
JOSH SHINNER
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
This page: a Dior tarot card designed by Naomi Howarth. Opposite: ‘Constellations IV’ (2017–2018) by LINA IRIS VIKTOR
21st
ALL ARTWORKS BY LINA IRIS VIKTOR, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND MARIANNE IBRAHIM GALLERY. DIOR TAROT CARD ILLUSTRATED BY NAOMI HOWARTH FOR THE DIOR CRUISE 2017 PARTY, PRODUCED BY FIONA LEAHY. ILLUSTRATION: VANYA HARAPAN
m the ets
In an age of anxiety, Ch arlo tte B roo km e
century sorcery
an yw om gic a en s nm r e e e d king s Midsummer’s night – when the skies over Britain’s highlands and trength through mo islands have scarcely deepened to black, before they begin to blush with daybreak – falls on 21 June this year. To mark the summer solstice, women across the country will make the pilgrimage to Stonehenge to observe pagan traditions, from reciting poems to laying down a sprig of meadowsweet. I am amazed to find that, for the first time, I am preparing to join them. This comes as a surprise: I suffer neither fools nor faeries gladly – but then, the cynic in me has always happily rubbed along with a permanent sense of curiosity. Since I have tentatively started exploring magic, it has become clear I am not alone: these days, alternative rituals, spells and symbols can be found in most walks of modern life – and are often hiding in plain sight. The artistically inclined seem – as we might expect – naturally drawn to the arcane, from the musician Florence Welch, who started a coven as a schoolgirl and has been bringing occult words and motifs to her audience ever since, to the fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, who celebrated mystic rituals in her recent exhibition at the Serpentine Galleries. Similarly, the anarchic nature of paganism appeals to politically radical women: Vivienne Westwood presented her latest collection with the rallying cry of ‘Politicians are criminals and I am a witch,’ while a coven in New York placed a hex on Brett Kavanaugh last year. Why now? One reason may be that there has never been so much choice, personally and professionally, for us: how to live, where to work, who to love. Politically, all bets are off, and the situation feels out of our control. Pursuits such as tarot reading are, perhaps, a way of finding order amid confusion. Certainly, history suggests that a sense of loss or uncertainty can manifest itself in a longing for the
esoteric; the fatalities of war and disease in 19th-century Britain led to the Victorians’ desire to communicate with the dead, which gave rise to spiritualism and the wildly popular séances. Seen this way, parallels between mindfulness and magical thinking reveal themselves. Both facilitate the concept of training the mind to see the same reality from a fresh perspective; both champion the power of positive thinking. The inspiring affirmations that appear daily on Instagram are akin to incantations: pithy, invigorating or comforting one-liners that life coaches encourage clients to chant like a mantra. Clearly, witchery has come a long way since it was deemed synonymous with devil-worship, and its adherents punished with ostracism or death. Even the Oxford English Dictionary has been changing its definitions: in editions published between 2000 and this year, these have ranged from ‘sorceress, woman supposed to have dealings with the Devil or evil spirits’ to ‘old hag’, ‘fascinating girl or woman’ and ‘person who follows or practises modern witchcraft’. Only the final definition chimes with the witches I have met, who have been fighting to reclaim the word for years. Christina Oakley Harrington, the founder of Treadwell’s, an occult bookshop in Bloomsbury, lived separate lives for 11 years, as a witch and as a
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
history professor at the University of Surrey, before ‘coming out’. ‘I’d have lost my job if the university had found out, because until the late Eighties, the term was still heavily associated with satanism,’ she says. Things began to change when an enlightened female professor of anthropology at the London School of Economics, Jean La Fontaine, took up the cause of witches who were, at the time, being wrongly accused of all manner of crimes in the tabloid press. La Fontaine collaborated with the government to author a 1994 paper that disproved the stories and brought an end to the worst of the allegations; still, it is only in the past six years that the taboo around the term has truly been lifted. ‘A beautiful thing has happened, whereby women are using “witch” as a metaphor, almost,’ Oakley Harrington observes. ‘They wear the word like a cloak of strength.’ Creative industries and pop culture have been quick to react to the increased appetite for witchcraft. Netflix has revived the cult television show Sabrina the Teenage Witch; the Ashmolean Museum recently held an exhibition examining the subject, entitled ‘Spellbound’; and to celebrate its 50th anniversary, the Scottish National Ballet is reimagining The Crucible via dance. Over at the avant-garde end of British fashion, this season’s collections include Ashley Williams’ accessories bearing the slogan ‘Witch’, and Stephen Jones’ Wizard of Oz-inspired pastel-pink and ruby-red pointy hats, which accompany Ryan Lo’s ethereal designs. Indeed, fashion has a long and intriguing history of linking arms with the occult, particularly tarot – perhaps explained by its focus on storytelling and beguiling designs. Christian Dior famously used to have his cards read whenever he was faced with important decisions, and Maria Grazia Chiuri shares his interest. When designing her 2018 Cruise collection, she came across the Motherpeace Tarot, a colourful deck of cards created by a feminist Californian duo. Some of their most moving, optimistic symbols, such as the Five of Swords (a caution against panic) and the Priestess of Wands (powerful female leadership), found their way onto Chiuri’s pieces. Dior has since collaborated with Selfridges’ inhouse fortune-tellers, the Psychic Sisters, and commissioned a card deck designed by the British illustrator Naomi Howorth. Chiuri has brought the tarot motifs into the 2020 Cruise collection, too. ‘If for Christian Dior the tarots and their symbols were amulets, which he used to get in touch with a magical dimension, for me they are keys to get in touch with the ancestral and profound part of each of us – to tell stories and act on the imagination,’ she says. ‘Everyone can interpret them differently.’ For bookish types, there is Litwitchure, a slick, London-based ‘literary tarot cabaret and consultancy’, co-founded last year by Fiona Lensvelt, a former Times books editor, and Jennifer Cownie, a creative strategist. They amazed a rapt audience at Port Eliot last summer with their on-stage card reading for the writer Nina Stibbe, when the cards revealed accurately that she was secretly getting married the following weekend. Cownie is currently also working with the editor, writer and astrologer Jessica Adams, who has noticed the steep rise in interest in the cosmic and mystic: traffic to her interactive online Tarot Tuesday series has hit the millions in the past year, mostly university-educated women, according to Google Analytics, and her last card reading, auctioned off by the Red Cross in aid of Grenfell Tower victims, went for £1,000. Her latest book, Secret Star Language, is out next year. ‘Tarot has come such a long way,’ she observes. ‘The professionalism and quality of tarot readers have skyrocketed, as women juggle their lives and look for answers.’ It is a notion supported by her friend, the writer Daisy Waugh who, like her father Auberon and grandfather Evelyn, has a strong
streak of cynicism, and initially thought the practice was ‘half ludicrous, half slightly scary’. After enrolling on a course as research for a novel, she became unexpectedly hooked, and now gives readings from her London garden office. Tarot reading is not the same as fortune-telling, Waugh explains; instead, it throws up questions and opens pathways that won’t have occurred to a client before. ‘We all have this magical super-awareness in us, but mostly choose not to acknowledge, or consciously listen to it,’ she says. This may sound like a progressive perspective, but it was a hundred years ago that Yeats remarked, ‘The world is full of magic things, patiently waiting for our senses to grow sharper.’ For both, the point is that something ‘other’ has always been in our minds and in reality. In the same way that dreams take us to foreign places, people and scenarios without lifting our head from the pillow at home, witchcraft shows us our lives anew, without the physical situation ever changing. When Waugh first started tarot, mention of her new ‘hobby’ was met with sneers; she is amazed by how much attitudes have changed in the six years since. ‘It is hard to pinpoint why. Possibly people are looking for hope and alternatives to the current chaos of reality,’ she muses. ‘For me, it makes me feel less alone in the universe – without the strictures of religion.’ Indeed, in a country where Christianity is steadily in decline and conflicts around faith continue all over the world, a ‘magical realm’ provides a place outside any belief system for atheists to send hopes, requests, dreams and apologies. The spellcasting I have witnessed is similar to prayers in church, but each person has their own private idea of where their thoughts are going. If talk of the transcendental disagrees with pragmatists and sceptics, it is worth noticing how, today, even scientists are exploring the potential of magical thinking to change people’s health or minds. The final section of the Wellcome Collection’s current exhibition ‘Smoke and Mirrors: the Psychology of Magic’ demonstrates the proven results of experimental research conducted by Jay Olson, a magician-turned-neuroscientist based at McGill University in Montreal. Participants felt that their moods had lifted, and that specific thoughts had been slotted into their minds during a session in what they were told was a psychic machine, but was in fact simply a defunct MRI scanner. Changing someone’s mind without chemical or physical intervention does appear to be a type of magic – although it seems an incongruous word to hear in a sterile medical unit in an academic setting. ‘With this treatment, although we are deploying “fake magic” – in the sense that the machine is not actually psychic – it produces a real magical effect,’ Olson says. ‘And I say magical, because it is outwardly inexplicable.’ It is a sign of the times that the highest echelons of academia are taking ‘occult’ ideas seriously. In fact, there has possibly never been a more interesting time to do so. The magic revolution appears to be a peaceful one: not aggressively subverting or overthrowing received wisdom, but opening ourselves up to the alternatives. Personally, I like the magical thinking of Marian Leatherby, the magnificent, charmingly recalcitrant 92-year-old protagonist of Leonora Carrington’s 1976 surrealist novel The Hearing Trumpet, whose outlook seems made for today’s world. She defies society’s depressing expectations of her, cheerfully ignores the patriarchy, and, like her chosen new friends in the novel, lives by her own radical sense of reality, with kindness and a sharp sense of humour. Modern witches are similar such heroines: sisters of outsiders, slow to judge and quick to act, they see ‘pagan’ as a byword for liberal. They are creative, curious and definitely do not ride on broomsticks. You are probably sitting next to one right now.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
‘Know We Will be Reborn Amidst All The Stars. Ex Nihilo’ (2015–2018) by LINA IRIS VIKTOR
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
SECTION
‘Yaa Asantewaa’ (2016) by LINA IRIS VIKTOR
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
THE NEW ART OF MAGIC
ILLUSTRATIONS: VANYA HARAPAN
By Frances Hedges
Against an increasingly fraught political backdrop, the need for a little magic in our lives is growing by the day – and with it, our openness to non-traditional forms of visual art. Since the start of this year, mystical influences have been felt in galleries on both sides of the Atlantic: the Swedish painter and spiritualist Hilma af Klint was recently the subject of a major retrospective at the Guggenheim in New York; while in London, the Serpentine Galleries have just shown the visionary drawings of the Swiss healer Emma Kunz, and the William Morris Gallery is currently displaying intricate ink drawings by the self-taught (and long-overlooked) 19th-century artist Madge Gill, who worked under the influence of her mysterious ‘spirit guide’. Artists no longer have to be outsiders to explore the possibilities of magical thinking, as Marina Abramovic has proved with her trance-like performances that recall séances or occult rituals. Following her example, a new generation of open-minded women are today creating art that tests the boundaries between reality and fantasy. Take the Norwegian-born, London-based artist Isabella Steinsdotter, whose interest in questions of identity is rooted in her birthright as the descendant of a self-proclaimed Viking witch-warrior. A poet, performer and practising witch, Steinsdotter belongs to an all-female art collective that recently unveiled a video installation, themed around women’s relationship with their bodies, in Venice’s new Giudecca Art District – a historic site that, aptly enough, was the setting for Abramovic’s first performance in 1976. Then there’s the British-Liberian artist Lina Iris Viktor, whose celestial-looking work is pictured on these pages. For Viktor, making magic is about contemplating the wonder that exists all around us. ‘I believe the artist’s role is to review that which is hidden – the universal symbols and patterns that exist in nature and the cosmos,’ she explains. ‘Our eyes are too often closed to the world that we live in because we’re so bogged down in the mundane.’ There is certainly nothing mundane about Viktor’s gloriously gilded creations, which she produces by placing the canvas flat on a surface – ‘the same way textiles or dream paintings are made’ – and building up thick, patterned layers, using resin or lacquer to create a lustrous effect. Her colour palette is imbued with symbolism: black represents a kind of dark matter; blue evokes the lapis lazuli beloved by the Ancient Egyptians; and gold has associations of sacred purity. The recurrence of concentric circles in Viktor’s ‘Constellations’ series conveys her fascination with different interpretations of time. ‘We see the past, present and future as linear, but other cultures envisage time as cyclical, going back and forth on itself like a spiral,’ she says. Viktor uses photographs of her own body, often adorned with paint or clothed in traditional dress, in many of her works, which she says are ‘wholly performative’ rather than self-portraits. In the piece shown opposite, she plays the part of Yaa Asantewaa, the Queen Mother of the Ashanti people in 19th-century Ghana, who led the war against British colonialism and fiercely defended the tribe’s sacred throne. A complex story that blends history with myth, and provokes questions about race and gender, it typifies the breadth of the artist’s work, which cannot be tied down to a single world view. ‘I don’t belong to any particular religion or belief system – I think spirituality is whatever works for you,’ says Viktor. ‘No idea is too strange for me. It’s all food for thought and I’m open to hearing it.’ Lina Iris Viktor’s work will be on show at Somerset House (www.somerset house.org.uk) from 12 June to 15 September as part of the exhibition ‘Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers’.
I USED TO BE A WITCH By Dorothea Lasky
I used to light the candles in the hallway and say your name Say it was what it was supposed to be Say love me love me I used to say love me I used to wear a long black coat And swab my staff at everything I used to sing and sing and it was for nobody Except the ghouls who peered at me from under the bed I used to kill off the dead Until they were my lovers I used to pin the legs above the head Until I could have my way with the dead I used to take your spirit out and put it my pocket And ride a horse that did not exist I used to go in, with a dark cat And mix a thousand herbs together But it was the new year And the cats, instead of keeping still Wanting to cry into the morning I used to sit alone, I used to be a witch Then you came along I used to be only what the nighttime knew But now you’re the witch, little thing And on a golden broom, I’ve sent you flying Through the stars And the moon The people will now look at you And this time The spell will only be For living From ‘Spells: 21st-Century Occult Poetry’ (£12.99, Ignota Books), edited by Sarah Shin and Rebecca Tamás.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BEYOND THE FRAME
As a retrospective of Cindy Sherman’s work opens at the National Portrait Gallery in London, Frances Hedges talks to the shape-shifting artist about the playful and provocative characters she creates, and how she continues to make art in an age of artifice
HAIR BY SHALOM SHARON AT BRYDGES MACKINNEY. MAKE-UP BY GENEVIEVE HERR AT SALLY HARLOR. MANICURE BY MICHINA KIODE AT ART DEPARTMENT
Cindy Sherman’s Untitled #204 (1988–1990)
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Portrait by RICHARD PHIBBS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
P
oised at the threshold of her top-floor apartment in New York’s SoHo district, I find myself wondering which of the many versions of Cindy Sherman I am about to meet. From young ingénue to ageing diva, working girl to bored housewife, Renaissance noblewoman to 21st-century street-style star, the photographer has inhabited almost every possible female archetype during a career that has spanned more than 40 years. So it comes as something of a surprise when the woman who opens the door to me turns out to be polite, softly spoken, bare-faced and understated – the polar opposite of the heavily made-up, flamboyantly costumed, larger-than-life characters she portrays in her work. Sherman, who at 65 will be the subject of a major new retrospective at the National Portrait Gallery this month, has always been clear about the performative nature of her images, none of which she sees as self-portraits. ‘I really don’t think of myself as being in any of the photographs,’ she tells me today, as we sit down together at the large, cluttered table in the centre of her light-filled studio. Evidence of her theatricality is all around us, visible in the masks, wigs, props and other ephemera that are lined up on the bookshelves or piled in corners of the room. ‘Some of these are from the last body of work I was doing, but there are other things I’ve probably had up for 20 years or so,’ she says, gesturing towards the magazine tearsheets tacked on the walls. There are voodoo sculptures, a plastic James Bond figure, a set of painted busts (‘I was collecting heads for a while’) and some crowns she recently picked up in a Parisian flea market. ‘I don’t know what I’m going to do with them,’ she admits. ‘Who knows – maybe I’ll do a series of queens…’ Clothes and objects have served as a source of inspiration for Sherman ever since she was a little girl playing with the dressing-up box in her family’s Long Island home. ‘It was fun, the idea of transforming into somebody else through make-up or costumes,’ she says, recalling her ambivalent feelings towards the ‘girdles, stockings, weird pointy bras and strange accoutrements’ that many women were still wearing in the 1950s and 1960s. ‘When I was growing up those things weren’t cool. Feminists were supposed to look natural – you didn’t need make-up, you didn’t dye your hair, you didn’t wear a bra – but for me dressing up was this secret pleasure.’ Her interest in fashion has remained a constant throughout her career, though her tastes have evolved along with her sense of self. ‘As a younger artist, I tended to dress more anonymously because I didn’t want to stand out,’ she reflects. ‘I think I was partly feeling
guilty about being successful when a lot of my friends weren’t, but now I’m past that. I love theatrical clothing – sometimes I’ll buy something and then realise I’m never going to wear it, but there’s always the potential to use it for some kind of character down the line.’ Costuming and make-up were crucial to the haunting, cinematic feel of the photographs that first propelled Sherman into the limelight. After graduating from the visual-arts department at Buffalo State College (where, ironically, she had failed one of her freshman photography classes), she moved to New York City in 1977 and began shooting what was to become her seminal ‘Untitled Film Stills’, a series of 70 black and white images inspired by cinema, from the French New Wave and the Italian Golden Age to the work of Alfred Hitchcock. Each enigmatic shot portrays a scene from an imaginary film, its solitary female subject captured in a moment of reflection or transition, whether gazing out of the window, staring at her face in the mirror or standing at the edge of an empty road hoping to hitch a ride. Developed in hot chemicals to give them a grainy texture reminiscent of the stills used in promotional materials, and replete with references to real movies, the photographs are tantalising in their narrative potential. Yet their meaning remains elusive, as does Sherman’s own role within the fictions she creates. ‘I was always losing myself in the work and hiding behind the make-up and under the wigs,’ she says. Sherman’s commitment to the art of artifice – ensuring that viewers always see her as an actress in a fabricated scenario – drove her to create increasingly eccentric, even grotesque figures. ‘In the beginning, I was always worried about people assuming I was this egotistical, self-obsessed person,’ she says. ‘So when I went to darker periods and uglier characters, I was really trying to make it apparent that it wasn’t about me or getting attention for myself.’ She populated her 1981 ‘Centerfolds’ project – designed to subvert the pornographic traditions of men’s magazines – with vulnerable-looking women, their privacy invaded by the presence of a voyeuristic camera. A few years later, for her ‘Disasters and Fairy Tales’ series (1985–1989), she used substances resembling vomit, blood and faeces, together with mannequins and prosthetic limbs, to convey the fragility of the human body – and, perhaps, to hint at the fissures in the surface of her invented world. Even Sherman’s most monstrous creations are not, however, without a touch of humour. ‘It’s like horror films – they’re sometimes really scary, but to me it’s a titillating sort of scariness,’ she says. ‘I always want my work to be kind of funny.’ Unlike method actors, she is sufficiently aware of the distance between herself and her fictional subjects to enjoy the shooting process for its own sake. ‘Some people assume I get all worked up,’ she says, ‘but the value of making still images is that I can go through a range of feelings within a split second. I’m constantly experimenting with which direction to take.’ This isn’t to say she is entirely emotionally removed from her characters: ‘I definitely have an attachment to all of them – I’m actually rather fond of some of the weirder ones.’ While most of Sherman’s subjects are figments of her imagination, in rare cases they are modelled on specific women, as with her
‘When I was growing up, feminists were supposed to look natural but for me dressing up was a secret pleasure’
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Clockwise from left: Sherman’s ‘Untitled Film Still #15’ (1978). ‘Untitled Film Still # 48’ (1979). ‘Untitled Film Still # 62’ (1977). ‘Untitled Film Still #7’ (1978). ‘Untitled Film Still # 64’ (1980). ‘Untitled Film Still # 54’ (1980)
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Above: ‘Untitled # 96’ (1981). Clockwise from below: ‘Untitled # 577’ (2016–2018). ‘Untitled # 205’ (1988–1990). ‘Untitled #122’ (1983). An image from Sherman’s Instagram account from April this year. Her New York studio
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ARTWORK THROUGHOUT COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND METRO PICTURES, NEW YORK
Left: masks in Sherman’s studio. Below: ‘Untitled # 466’ (2008)
playful parody of Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’ portrait of Madame Moitessier, shot in 1989 as part of the ‘History Portraits’ series. Here, Sherman appropriates the visual language of French neoclassical painting, using prominent prosthetics to draw attention to the illusion inherent in the act of portraiture – and, often, the vanity of the sitters. This is a theme she has revisited in some of her more recent work, including her 2016 collaboration with the US edition of Harper’s Bazaar, for which she produced a set of images satirising the so-called street-style stars who parade around at fashion shows in head-to-toe designer outfits. ‘Some of them get out of their limo, like, two blocks away just so they can walk through this gamut of photographers to have their picture taken,’ she says, laughing. How, I wonder, does Sherman herself feel about the fashion world, given that these days she is more in demand than most of the fame-hungry poseurs who have been the subject of her gentle mockery? ‘I can take it in small doses,’ she says. ‘I mean, sometimes it’s fun, but those shows can be brutal – it’s insane, the level of celebrity and paparazzi.’ She recently went to her friend Marc Jacobs’ wedding, but says that she hardly saw him amid the crowds. ‘I felt like I was more of a fly on the wall and wished afterwards that I’d been taking pictures. That’s the funny thing about my phone – I never think of using it as a camera.’ She may not have the snap-happy instincts of a digital native, but Sherman has more than proved her mastery of social media. Always quick to embrace the potential of new technology, she moved away from film in the late 1990s, enjoying the freedom that a digital camera gave her to change backgrounds or make other subtle adjustments, but her enthusiastic foray into Instagram came as a surprise to everyone. Since 2017, she has delighted her followers (now 250,000 and counting) with a series of bizarre and imaginative Insta-portraits in which she uses apps such as Facetune to distort her features beyond recognition: in one shot, she appears in a hospital setting with oxygen tubes up her nostrils; in another, her lips, eyes and brows are turned a ghoulish black. Though Sherman herself dismisses these images as ‘ just a bit of fun’,
it is hard not to grant them some significance in the context of her back catalogue, which effectively prophesied our modern obsession with self-representation, and all the deception that entails. As for the phenomenon of the selfie, Sherman professes to be mystified by its popularity – ‘I don’t think the cell phone is actually very flattering for the face’ – and has concerns about the impact of facial filtering on women growing up today. ‘I’ve read about young people getting plastic surgery to try to look more like the selfies they post,’ she says. ‘That’s a little scary.’ This is about as close as Sherman will come to spelling out the social critique that is implicit in her so much of her photography. ‘I mean, I’m not working just blindly – I’m definitely aware of the things I’m addressing,’ she says. ‘But I prefer to let the work be the advocate that I’m not, because I don’t feel I’m that articulate when it comes to standing up and making declarations, or writing things on Instagram.’ The same goes for her brand of feminism, which is very much about showing rather than telling. ‘I’d rather express how I feel in this subtle, sneaking-in-from-behind way than by hammering a message over someone’s head,’ she explains. Like most women artists, Sherman has experienced the frustration of commanding lower prices than her male counterparts (‘I’m very well respected now, and yet I still notice that in auctions the guys are selling more’), but has no intention of giving up the fight. For her latest project, a collaboration with Stella McCartney, she has deliberately blurred the lines between genders by dressing up in a fluid combination of pieces from the fashion designer’s menswear and womenswear collections, selected from across multiple seasons to create a sense of timelessness. ‘The works that she’s produced are astonishing,’ says McCartney. ‘They feel fresh, modern and a new direction for her.’ As for which direction Sherman will take next, the possibilities are endless. She is currently pondering a project that would see her transform her Instagram photos into a physical tapestry (‘I love the idea of the weave as its own kind of pixellation’), as well as exploring the idea of returning to film-making – something she hasn’t done since she directed the comedy-horror flick Office Killer in 1997. ‘At a certain point I tend to get bored because I feel like I’m just repeating the same old things,’ she says, ‘but then I’ll discover something different to try, which is always fun.’ More than that she won’t reveal, which perhaps shouldn’t come as a surprise. After all, if there’s one thing Cindy Sherman is good at, it’s keeping us guessing… ‘Cindy Sherman’ is at the National Portrait Gallery (www.npg.org.uk) from 27 June to 15 September.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BEAUTY Edited by KATY YOUNG
BRIGHT IDEAS
Reduce, reuse and recycle with the latest skin-soothing sun creams. Plus: discover the bewitching trend for magical treatments
Photographs by KATE DAVIS-MACLEOD Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND
Swimsuit, £390, Hermès
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
R AYS OF HOPE Protect yourself and the environment this summer with our definitive guide to suncare By SIÂN RANSCOMBE
KATE DAVIS-MACLEOD
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY CAMILLA HEWITT AT ONE REPRESENTS, USING VITA LIBERATA TAN, DAVINES AND MAC. MODEL: NIKKI VONSEE AT VIVA LONDON. WITH THANKS TO GRAND HOUSE IN THE ALGARVE (WWW.GRANDHOUSEALGARVE.COM)
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BEAUTY BAZAAR
Swimsuit, £260, Araks. Hat, £588, Lola Hats
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
S SP
uncare is one of the most science-led sectors of the beauty industry, which is understandable. When the failure of a formulation will result in sunburn, there can be no place for faddy or ineffectual ingredients. And increasingly, modern lifestyles demand that the ideal sunscreen should also protect the skin against blue light and pollution, provide a host of anti-ageing benefits, perhaps give a hint of radiance, and sink in immaculately, leaving no greasy residue. It has certainly come a long way since its invention. During World War II, red veterinary petrolatum (known as ‘red vet pet’) was standard equipment on life rafts used by the US Army. This viscous substance was found to be effective in G l a ci e rC blocking the harsh rays that soldiers would find re am themselves subjected to in hot countries. The concept of SPF (sun protection factor) was introduced in the 1960s. One of the first to implement it was the Austrian chemist Franz Greiter, who had started his investigations into suncare years earlier when he created a ‘Glacier Cream’ after being sunburnt while hiking Mount Piz Buin. The company that Greiter subsequently established, Piz Buin, now offers products under categories including Ultra Light, Protect & Cool, Tan & Protect and Instant Glow. With every passing summer, sun lotions become ever more sophisticated. Dermalogica’s new Prisma Protect SPF30 uses light-activated chlorella extract to increase cellular energy and boost the skin’s luminosity; Sisley’s Sunleÿa GE SPF50+ also firms the skin and fights against the effects of collagen-degrading ‘glycation’; and Dr Maryam Zamani’s MZ Skin Tint & Protect typifies this all-in-one attitude to suncare, providing an SPF of 30 while using hyaluronic acid and encapsulated vitamin C to boost cell turnover. Additionally, of course, brands must do their part in saving the planet. Spare a thought for the research and development teams, who are obliged to meet the multiplying requirements of the consumer, while also ensuring their products are as clean and green as possible. F3
0, £
1 1 Piz B u i n
Ca
VB
30
Arden
Wearable formulas ‘Sunscreen is the one “anti-ageing” product everyone should be using daily, yet is also the one that causes endless confusion,’ says the dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. ‘People aren’t clear on how to make it work with their routine and make-up, and they worry it will clog pores or leave a greasy film.’ Dr Bunting has added Flawless Daily Sunscreen SPF50 to her skincare line, which launched last year. The fragrance-free lotion feels barely heavier than a daily moisturiser and comes with clear application instructions. Other new, impressive and nonpore-clogging facial formulas include Chanel UV Essentiel Gel-Crème SPF50, which leaves skin perfectly primed for makeup; and Elizabeth Arden’s Great 8 Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF35. Dior Bronze Beautifying Protective Creme SPF50 adds a subtle glow. For the body, try Vichy’s Idéal Soleil Solar Protective Water Antioxidant SPF30, a light spray with antioxidant blueberry polyphenols that constitute an extra line of defence.
UV Essentiel Gel-Crème SPF50, £46 Chanel
Flawless Daily Sunscreen SPF50, £29 Dr Sam’s
Dior Bronze Beautifying Protective Creme Sublime Glow SPF50, £27.50 Dior
l a ri
un
pa
C 27
ns
M i n e ra l S
C
om
or Face UVA U ct f
,£
re
Prisma Protect SPF30, £58 Dermalogica
‘The key is delivering the same efficacy, keeping the texture people love, and at the same time trying to find a way to move away from certain ingredients,’ says Arnaud Meysselle, the chief executive officer at Ren Clean Skincare. These include chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate – two effective UV filters, which were both banned in Hawaii last year due to the harm they have been proven to cause to coral reefs. This year, a host of sunscreens using alternative filters and proclaiming themselves to be ‘reef-friendly’ has appeared on UK shelves. Yet despite all the education and research that is being carried out, the helpful advice issued by the British Skin Foundation remains simple: to apply SPF30 between 20 and 30 minutes before sun exposure and to reapply once every two hours, or more frequently if swimming or sweating. A common mistake is to use too little sunscreen. ‘The average-sized adult should apply more than half a teaspoon to each arm and just over one teaspoon to each leg on both the front and back of the body,’ says Dr Anjali Mahto, the consultant dermatologist and spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation. ‘Use a quarter of a teaspoon for the face.’ And don’t forget those easy-to-miss areas. ‘The ears are the third most common place for developing basal cell carcinomas,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘Eyelid cancers account for between Great 8 Daily Defense five and 10 per cent of all skin cancers, and they can develop Moisturizer Broad on the scalp, too.’ Spectrum For a comprehensive look at the best ways to protect SPF35, £36 Elizabeth yourself, read on for the smartest sun filters of 2019…
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BEAUTY BAZAAR Very High Protection Spray SPF50+, £20 Avène
Sun & City Protection SPF50+, £60 Dr Sebagh Ultra Sun Protection SPF45 Primer, £84 each Chantecaille
For sensitive skin ‘For sensitive skin, an all-physical sunscreen is often the best choice,’ advises Dr Bunting. ‘Look for zinc oxide and titanium dioxide for complete UVA and UVB cover.’ Avène’s soothing, mineral-rich products are good for anyone with sensitivities, and its new Very High Protection Spray is long-lasting and water-resistant. For the face, La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Shaka Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+ is suited to skin prone to prickly heat, while Chantecaille’s Ultra Sun Protection SPF45 contains lemon balm and white-tea extract to soothe irritation. See also Sisley’s Super Stick Solaire, a handy little pocket-sized tube designed specifically for the more sensitive areas of the face, including the eye contour.
Antihelios Shaka UltraLight Fluid SPF50+, £16.50 La RochePosay
Recycled/recyclable A 2016 report found that the equivalent of one rubbish truck full of plastic ends up in the ocean every minute. In response, Ren announced its intention to be completely waste-free by 2021. Its Clean Screen Mineral SPF30 comes in a 50 per cent ‘postconsumer recycled’ plastic tube – made from discarded items diverted from landfill that have been cleaned and reprocessed. The company has also partnered with the recycling company TerraCycle’s Loop scheme to champion the use of refillable glass bottles. Aveda is experimenting with plant-derived ‘bioplastic’, used to package its Daily Light Guard Defence Fluid SPF30, and the founders of the new suncare brand Saltee, previously directors of a large recycling company, have used their experience to create a range of eco-friendly – and very chic – products. Clean Screen Mineral SPF30, £30 Ren
Sea & Sun Lotion SPF30, £32 Saltee
Capital Soleil Beach Protect AntiDehydration Spray SPF50, £18.50 Vichy
Super Stick Solaire Tinted SPF50, £76 Sisley
Reef-friendly
Beautifying Suncare Oil SPF30, £21 Caudalie
It is estimated that around 14,000 tonnes of sunscreen washes into the oceans each year. One report by the International Coral Reef Initiative found that the UV filter oxybenzone has been linked with damage to the coral’s DNA and reproduction. Brands to have phased it out include Caudalie, which has partnered with the Reef-World Foundation for the launch of its suncare collection; Aethic holds an eco-compatible-sunscreen patent for its nature- and marine-friendly products. If you are looking for a lotion designed specifically for spending time in the water, opt for Vichy’s Capital Soleil Beach Protect, which works against salt and chlorine to maintain skin hydration, and offers biodegradability with minimum impact on ocean life.
Daily Light Guard Defense Fluid Broad Spectrum SPF30, £34 Aveda
Sôvée Triple-Filter Ecocompatible Sunscreen SPF25, £44 Aethic
PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP
SUN-SAFETY TERMINOLOGY SPF Sun protection factor. ‘The number represents how much longer the skin can stay in the sun without burning,’ says the dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams. ‘If you would normally be able to stay in the sun for 10 minutes, SPF15 should protect you for 150 minutes without damage.’ www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
U VA / U V B UVA rays go deeper into the skin and are responsible for photoageing, while UVB rays affect the skin surface and can cause burning and skin cancer. SPF relates only to protection against UVB burn: for a product offering both, look for ‘Broad spectrum’ on the label.
CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL FILTERS ‘Absorber UV filters work by absorbing harmful ultraviolet light, converting it and giving the energy back out as infrared warmth,’ says Dr Williams. ‘Physical filters work by reflecting the UV radiation away from the skin.’ July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 193
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BEAUTY BAZAAR
T
, tor
Cast your spell…
Ro
a rlo
t t e Ti l b u
ry
| July 2019
Love Candle, £25 Psychic Sisters
,£ 4
Ch
a
O
rg
a n ic s
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
Botanical Kinetics Exfoliating Cleanser, £22 Aveda
c Magi Cream
9
Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation SPF15, £32 Bobbi Brown
£53 Kor
194 |
Urban Protect Day Oil, £225 Dr Michael Prager
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VANYA HARAPAN. PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP
cu
se Q u a r t
z
Facial S
lp
H
rt ea
ns a n o i t o
otions dp
L
My beloved frequently inquires why there’s a chunk of he language of beauty is awash with magic. ‘Let pink rock by our bed, to which I respond: ‘It’s why we are me be spellbinding,’ yearns the teenager in all of together!’ (rose quartz supposedly being a purveyor of love). us; the very word ‘glamour’ derives from an early18th-century term meaning ‘enchantment’. Fairy-tale In truth, I simply love the look of these earthen jewels, which have transformations remain perennially thrilling, from the old-woman- the appeal of pebbles collected on the beach. However, those who turned-beauty of Chaucer’s The Wife of Bath’s Tale to the ravishing argue in favour of crystals’ spiritual properties claim that they sorceress Melisandre in Game of Thrones, whose pulchritude relies transmit stable energy to anchor vacillating human emotions. upon a flaming jewel. As the solstice draws near – when the days are Enthusiasts include Adele, Victoria Beckham, Lena Dunham, Cara long and the nights rich in promise – who hasn’t pondered her own Delevingne, Miranda Kerr and the Olsen twins; the Duchess of occult ritual, like Cassandra Mortmain in I Capture the Castle, to Sussex’s black onyx pendant is understood to be a conduit for peace, conjure beauty, charm and the love that feels attendant on both? love and harmony. ‘Crystals and their apparent healing properties have become Well, we’re in luck because magic has supplanted nature as the cosmetics industry’s obsession du jour. Charlotte Tilbury has hugely popular,’ agrees Newby Hands, the global beauty director at her Magic Cream, Anastasia of Beverly Hills her Moonchild Net-A-Porter. ‘Today’s women are very connected to the idea that health, happiness and glowing skin are directly related, Glow Kit, Lush its bathing wares based on mediaeval potions. meaning anything that gives us an antidote to stress, Crystal-infused beauty is everywhere, from cleanser lack of sleep, or always feeling we have to be (Aveda’s Botanical Kinetics Exfoliating Crème “on” sells incredibly well. We have Kora Cleanser) to highlighter (Glossier’s Haloscope Organics’ Rose Quartz Heart Facial Sculpin Topaz), while big business is becoming tor, and Angela Caglia’s rose quartz Face ever more open-minded in its embrace Rollers, as well as Gua Sha tools, which of more arcane wares: Aveda now boost the lymphatic system. Hi-tech sells chakra sprays and Selfridges LED-light-therapy masks are still a stocks Psychic Sisters’ Bath Salts Hannah Betts big seller, but we are now seeing and Candles. the same woman buying a jade or In an age in which reality feels at investigates the crystal roller.’ once too real and surreal, while techunexpected pleasures Taking the trend a stage further, nology drains our psyches, it makes the make-up artist Laurey Simmons sense that many of us are looking of magic-inspired has written The Inner Beauty Bible, beyond the mundane. As a dogmatic rituals which offers a pick ’n’ mix of sacred atheist, I tend to find my bewitchment in options, beauty rituals included. Accormaterial miracles: Dr Michael Prager’s dingly, I bathe my crystals in moonlight, sorcery with a Botox needle, say, or Bobbi smudge away negative energy using sacred Brown’s miraculous foundations. Nevertheless, wood, sprinkle petals in my bath and burn precious even I feel the draw of higher mysteries. oils. I embrace the imperfections that come with my 48 Ila Spa’s founder Denise Leicester describes herself as a nurse, aromatherapist, yoga teacher, sound healer, holistic body- years by contemplating a withered leaf, while chanting: ‘In beauty worker and spiritual philosopher. Her brand has been created with may I walk.’ Alas, sacred wood apart (which smells sublime), it all makes me ‘conscious, healing intent’, and fans of her philosophy of beauty as ‘soul sustenance’ include Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman and feel a little foolish. Still, my distrust of spiritual platitudes propels Donna Karan. I visit the Lanesborough Spa to experience one of me towards my own secular strategies, in which applying my Ila’s crystal-singing-bowl therapies, which offers an ‘internal morning make-up, brushing my hair, or dousing myself in scent can massage’ through vibration with the chakras. After a mere 20 become moments of heightened awareness. A soak in the bath minutes, I emerge becalmed and – yes! – more fetching, my face doesn’t have to be otherworldly to anchor me in the beauty of the moment. having lost its customary rictus of tension.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ESCAPE
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
Edited by LUCY HALFHEAD
Osiou Grigoriou monastery, on Mount Athos in Greece
ETERNAL BLUE SK IES
A Greek odyssey to Mount Athos. Plus, Italy’s most beautiful destinations and an insider’s guide to Rome
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
LAND OF THE GODS
Justine Picardie encounters ancient legends and modern luxury on the verdant Halkidiki peninsula
Mount Athos
Simonos Petras monastery on Mount Athos. Above left: the Cabin bar at Eagles Villas. Above right: the editor’s poolside reading
198 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
M
ount Athos, known by some as the Holy Mountain, has long cast a spell over travellers; perhaps because it remains inaccessible to all but a few. A remote, forested peninsula in the wilds of north-eastern Greece, it was a sacred site in Classical mythology, and thereafter home to 20 ancient Christian monasteries. Controlled for centuries as an autonomous region by the Orthodox Church, the mountain continues to be closed to tourists. A limited number of male visitors – including, in recent years, Prince Charles and Vladimir Putin – are allowed to enter as pilgrims, but only after applying for a special entry permit; women are strictly banned (as, indeed, are all female animals). Legend has it that the Virgin Mary was sailing to Cyprus, accompanied by St John the Evangelist, when her ship was blown off course, and forced to anchor at Mount Athos. Mary came ashore, and was so struck by the beauty of the landscape that she blessed it; from then on, it was consecrated as the Garden of the Mother of God, and has remained out of bounds to any other woman. There is, however, no sanction against the spectacular bird’s-eye view of Mount Athos that is available to guests at the appropriately named Eagles Villas; though the eyrie we discovered there, for six heavenly days in midsummer, came with far more luxuries than are afforded the stern monks along the coast. As a consequence, I found it difficult to be irked by the fact that I was forbidden to enter their monasteries. After all, when you can contemplate the sun setting over the Holy Mountain, while sipping a glass of perfectly chilled
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ESCAPE
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, HEINZ TROLL, JUSTINE PICARDIE, PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
The beach at Eagles Palace. Left: the hotel’s Armyra restaurant
white wine, who could feel anything other than blessed? The villas are perched high up on a hill above Eagles Palace, a splendid and well-established hotel close to Mount Athos, complete with several excellent restaurants and an impressive spa. Sleek, chic and modernist in design, the villas are a newer addition, but nevertheless blend into the landscape, thanks to the wildflowers and grasses planted atop the flat roofs, and gardens filled with fragrant lavender, juniper, rosemary and thyme. Each of the villas has its own private pool – the ideal place to read or £255 watch butterflies dance amid the olive groves; but a golden stretch Etro of sandy beach is an easy stroll away, and far too tempting to be missed. The turquoise waters of the Aegean are crystal-clear here, and glorious for swimming and snorkelling. It’s all wonderfully wellorganised, with plentiful sunloungers and parasols, attentive staff and more than enough space for everyone to find a quiet spot. There is an attractive beachside tavern for lunch, or the hotel £120 can arrange a boat trip and picnic on a tiny nearby island, uninWilliam & Son habited aside from a herd of friendly goats. Should you wish to get closer to Mount Athos, Vassilis the skipper can whisk you there by speedboat; he’s a local, and knows exactly where the best vantage points are to gaze at the monasteries from across the water, as well as sharing anecdotes about the occasional woman who has defied the veto and made her way into the monastic territory, disguised as a man. Was I tempted £110 to follow in their footsteps? No, nor to swim to shore (the swirling Longchamp currents are notoriously treacherous, and have been responsible for numerous shipwrecks over the centuries). The vast, implacable mountain is just as memorable when seen from aboard a boat, as mysterious as it must have seemed to those sailors of the Ancient world who believed it was home to Zeus and Apollo, as it was to the pilgrims of early Christianity. Yet an equally unforgettable experience came to pass, even closer to hand: a pod of silvery dolphins suddenly leaping through the waves, so near I could have reached out and touched them. And at that moment, entirely unexpected and unsought, it felt as if the miracle of Mount Athos was alive, in these wild and beautiful creatures and the unmastered seas around us… Eagles Villas (www.eaglesvillas.gr), from about £2,670 a villa a week.
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
£2,200 Dior
Bracelet, £3,345 Fope
£665 Salvatore Ferragamo
£140 Maison Lejaby
Left, above centre and below: Eagles Villas
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
LA DOLCE VISTA
From a heavenly hilltop hideaway to a majestic Venetian palazzo, discover Italy’s most picturesque retreats
L’ALBERETA LOMBARDY Just under an hour from Milan, L’Albereta is an enchanting hilltop retreat ringed by vineyards and with panoramic views of Lake Iseo beyond. There are 57 attractive guestrooms, but, for added wow-factor, book the Cabriolet Suite, which has a retractable roof so you can stargaze from bed. During the day, you can visit the neighbouring Bellavista winery to sample its signature Alma Gran Cuvée, before returning to the hotel for a long lunch on the leafy terrace. Otherwise, simply pad around in a fluffy robe at the state-of-the-art Espace Chenot spa, where a team of medical experts create bespoke programmes to leave you feeling refreshed and completely revitalised. ELLA PHILLIPS L’Albereta (www.albereta.it), from about £225 a room a night. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
PHOTOGRAPHS: © DURSTON SAYLOR, MASSIMO LISTRI, ALEX MOLING
ROSE WOOD CASTIG LION DEL BOSCO TUSCANY With just 23 suites and 11 villas dotted across more than 4,000 breathtaking acres, Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco guarantees peace and privacy for all its guests. Stately rooms are decorated in traditional Tuscan hues of burgundy, ochre and green, echoing the cypress-trees outside the windows, with luxurious touches including four-poster beds and wood-burning stoves. The hotel is home to the only private golf course in Italy, plus a cookery school, a winery with an enoteca (tasting-room), and a magnificent spa. But perhaps the most exquisite place to while away the afternoon is beside the swimming pool, where the scent of lavender from the surrounding fields fills the air. LUCY HALFHEAD Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco (www.rosewoodhotels.com), from about £665 a room a night.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ESCAPE
J K P L AC E F I R E N Z E F LO R E N C E At JK Place Firenze, tucked away in a corner of bustling Piazza Santa Maria Novella, the welcoming atmosphere starts at check-in, where guests are invited to take a seat in the elegant lounge with a glass of iced tea and a slice of Amaretto biscuit torte, before being shown to one of the 20 delightful bedrooms. With its panelled walls and painted ceilings, this beautiful boutique hotel feels more like a private home, and the immaculate staff treat you as if you were old friends. The general manager Claudio Meli also happens to be a Florentine legend, with connections at the best bars and restaurants in the city. CAROLINE LEWIS JK Place Firenze (www.jkplace.com), from £380 a room a night.
AMAN VENICE There are few breakfast spots more glorious than the Aman Venice’s piano nobile, whose doors open onto a balcony overlooking the Grand Canal. Within the majestic 16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli near the Rialto Bridge, 24 sumptuous suites combine opulent contemporary comforts with romantic treasures. Interiors feature Rubelli-silk wall coverings, frescoes by Tiepolo and Murano-glass chandeliers, alongside modern furniture and sleek lighting. After a day of sightseeing, unwind with an exceptional massage at the in-house spa, followed by an Aperol Spritz on the rooftop and decadent Venetian fare from Italy’s acclaimed Michelinstarred chef Davide Oldani. EP Aman Venice (www.aman.com), from £810 a room a night.
VILL A ETEREA PUGLIA Exclusively available via the brilliant holiday-home-rental company The Thinking Traveller, Villa Eterea is a chic abode with uninterrupted views of the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Accommodation is spread over three levels, and includes five double bedrooms, a living-room with floors fashioned from the local pietra di Trani stone, and a small gym. The villa’s sweeping balcony is perfect for lazy lunches, or you can simply curl up with a book by the heated infinity pool. And while it’s easy to remain ensconced at this serene property, there are a number of pristine sandy beaches and charming towns close by if you’re feeling adventurous. LH Villa Eterea (sleeps 10), from £2,255 a week (www.thethinkingtraveller.com). July 2019 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| 201
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ESCAPE BAZAAR
T R AV E L
The River Tiber. Left: the Spanish Steps. Bottom: the Hotel de Russie
ROME
Bulgari’s Lucia Silvestri offers a local’s guide to a perfect getaway in the Eternal City
Lucia Silvestri at the Colosseum Three words that describe Rome
‘Colour, atmosphere, museums.’ Best place to stay
‘The Hotel de Russie exudes classic glamour. The Hassler is wonderful for dinner and it’s so near the Spanish Steps.’ What’s in your carry-on luggage?
‘I’m never without my favourite cashmere wrap or my down jacket from the Italian brand Aspesi. I always have at least a few rings, bracelets and pendants layered on all at once, especially my talisman, a star sapphire.’ Favourite view
Your secret spot
‘My favourite museum, the Galleria Borghese, isn’t huge but it’s full of incredible art. Every time I go I see something inspiring.’ Favourite memory The Lip Balm, £52 La Mer
‘Entering the Colosseum for the first time, aged about 10. I’d seen lots of historical films about the Roman Empire, so it was like walking onto a movie set. It even inspired the design of our bestselling B.zero1 rings, which we’re relaunching this year to celebrate their 20th anniversary. I still wave ciao to the Colosseum every time I pass it.’ £555 Prada
202 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
What do you like to read?
‘Memoirs of Hadrian, by Marguerite Yourcenar. I love reading about this Emperor – he had such a passion for arts and culture.’ What do you pack?
‘Rome is a walking city, so it’s good to bring flat shoes to deal with all the sanpietrini (cobbles) – I like L’Autre Chose and Prada. It’s also a city of colour, so I recommend leaving dark hues at home and embracing joyful shades.’ Favourite restaurant
‘NiNo in Via Borgognona. It’s so traditional; the owner has been there for 40 years.’ Beauty essentials
‘La Mer lip balm, Sisley moisturiser and a hand balm I have made up by my local pharmacist.’ Best tip for adventure
‘Rome is full of ancient family palazzos – on every corner there is a hidden gem full of paintings like Caravaggios or Tintorettos. It’s always worth seeking them out.’
Rings, from £1,870, all Bulgari
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, LUCKY IF SHARP. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
‘I travel a lot and take inspiration from everywhere, but the view from our office at Lungotevere Marzio is really special. I see the sun set on the Tiber every evening and the colours are always extraordinary.’
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
BAZAAR PROMOTION
Partners in style Announcing a new fashion-design collaboration between Bazaar and CSVPA
C
ambridge School of Visual and Performing Arts offers a true atelier experience within which designers can cultivate their identity and start to establish their individual aesthetic before taking their next career step. As one of the UK’s leading providers of Art & Design, Fashion, Drama and Music pathway and degree programmes, the school aims to provide a unique and highly personalised method of learning, and to foster an environment in which to nurture, educate and encourage creative individuals. The school has a truly global outlook, welcoming students from around the world, and teaching is intensive, with small class sizes and close personal support for every student. Through that bespoke approach to education, which also features a curated roster of industry projects and guest lecturers, it equips students with the skillset required to forge their own direction and embrace the multifaceted profession of design. Over the past 30 years, CSVPA has developed links with leading companies in the creative industries, including Hearst UK,
The CSVPA rector Karin Askham and the designer Holly Fulton
Harper’s Bazaar is offering one aspiring designer a fully funded CSVPA fashion scholarship
which publishes this magazine. As a result of that partnership, Harper’s Bazaar is offering one aspiring designer a fully funded scholarship for CSVPA’s BA (Hons) Fashion course, which focuses on contemporary fashion design and is led by the award-winning designer Holly Fulton. The course includes an internship at Harper’s Bazaar of up to four weeks, and on successful completion of their third year the student will have the opportunity to show their final collection in London. For full details of eligibility and to apply for the scholarship, visit www.csvpa.com/apply/scholarships.htm.
Left: a student at work in the CSVPA design studios
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
FLASH!
Mary Greenwell Tristram Hunt Pixie Geldof
Pam Hogg
IN FULL SWING
The V&A celebrated the legacy of the 1960s at the glittering launch of its Mary Quant exhibition Edited by CHARLOTTE BROOK
Pattie Boyd
A gloriously cross-generational coterie of models, musicians and designers – from the iconic faces of the Swinging Sixties to today’s emerging talents – descended on the V&A to launch its retrospective of the trailblazing Mary Quant. Terence Conran was allowed a private glimpse of the show before the party officially kicked off with a speech from the museum’s director Tristram Hunt. He saluted the way Quant democratised design and quoted her famous feminist proclamation, ‘I didn’t have time to wait for women’s lib!’ Sustained by champagne and beetroot-cured salmon canapés, guests then set off to explore the exhibition. The rock ’n’ roll muse Pattie Boyd enjoyed going down memory lane, admiring Quant’s signature miniskirts, bell-bottoms and PVC raincoats, while Pixie Geldof exclaimed how relevant the designer’s clothes and ethos still seem today. CB
Caroline Issa
Georgia Metcalfe, Sophie Cecily Coleridge and Nicholas Coleridge
Oriole Cullen and Juliet Nicolson
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Arizona Muse
Kim Parker
Miranda Almond
Camille Charrière
Tess Ward, Becky Tong, Danielle Copperman, Niomi Smart, Rosanna Falconer, Doina Ciobanu and Hermione Corfield
FORCES OF NATURE
PHOTOGRAPHS: NATALIE MARTINEZ, OLIVER HOLMS, GETTY IMAGES :
Environmentally conscious stars gathered to toast Alberta Ferretti’s sustainable collection
Danielle Copperman
‘Watch out, you have not one but two strong Italian women on your hands!’ So warned Britain’s most elegant environmentalist, Livia Firth, as she addressed an intimate lunchtime party at the fern-filled Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals. Guests had come together to celebrate the launch of Alberta Ferretti’s capsule collection, created in collaboration with Firth’s consultancy, Eco-Age. Arizona Muse arrived sporting one of Ferretti’s jumpers, in which she proudly posed before moving to the balcony to discuss supply-chain transparency with Mary Charteris over pear, kefir lime and lemongrass spritzes. The happy occasion was well under way when Eva Herzigova strode in, congratulating the hosts with cries of ‘Brava!’ and chatting to them in fluent Italian, much to everyone’s admiration. CB Alberta Ferretti and Eva Herzigova Alberta Ferretti and Livia Firth
Sasha Slater
Mary Charteris
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
STOCKISTS
1–A
L
1st Dibs (1stdibs.com) Alexander McQueen (020 7355 0088;
Laurence Dacade (www.laurence-dacade.com) Le Monde Beryl
www.alexandermcqueen.com) Amini (+39 02 4539 1455; www.amini.it)
(07415 790635; www.lemondeberyl.com) Levi’s (020 7240 1443;
Annoushka (020 7629 8233; www.annoushka.com) Araks (+1 212 982 5652;
www.levi.com) Liberty (020 7734 1234; www.libertylondon.com)
www.araks.com) Atelier Swarovski (020 7016 3200; www.swarovski.com)
Lock & Co (020 7930 8874; www.lockhatters.co.uk) Lola Hats (www.lolahats. com) Longchamp (020 7493 5515; www.longchamp.com) Loro Piana (020
B
7235 3203; www.loropiana.com) Louis Vuitton (020 7998 6286; www.
Ba&sh (020 7584 2170; www.ba-sh.com) Balenciaga (020 7317 4400;
louisvuitton.com) Luisa Spagnoli (020 7491 7703; www.luisaspagnoli.com)
www.balenciaga.com) Blithfield (020 7460 6454; www.blithfield.co.uk) Boodles (020 7437 5050; www.boodles.com) Boss (020 7499 5605;
M
www.hugoboss.com) Bottega Veneta (020 7838 9394; www.bottegaveneta.
Maison Lejaby (www.maisonlejaby.com) Maison Sarah Lavoine
com) Bulgari and Bulgari High Jewellery (020 7872 9969; www.bulgari.com)
(www.maisonsarahlavoine.com) Mallory (01225 788800; www.mallory
Burberry (020 7980 8425; www.burberry.com)
-jewellers.com) Manolo Blahnik (020 3793 6794; www.manoloblahnik.com) Mara Hoffman (www.marahoffman.com) Marina Rinaldi and Marina
C
Rinaldi x Ashley Graham (020 7629 4454; www.marinarinaldi.com) Marysia
Cartier (020 7408 9192; www.cartier.co.uk) Celine by Hedi Slimane
(www.marysia.com) Matchesfashion.com (www.matchesfashion.com)
(020 7491 8200; www.celine.com) Chanel (020 7493 5040; www.chanel.com)
Max Mara (020 7499 7902; www.maxmara.com) Michael Kors and Michael
Chanel Fine Jewellery (020 7499 0005; www.chanel.com)
Kors Collection (020 7240 6263; www.michaelkors.co.uk) Miu Miu (020 7235
Chaumet (020 7495 6303; www.chaumet.com) Chloé (020 3057 4000;
6965; www.miumiu.com) Muller van Severen (www.mullervanseveren.be)
www.chloe.com) Chopard (www.chopard.com) Church’s (www.church -footwear.com) Clippings (www.clippings.com) Cutler and Gross
N–P
(020 8451 0331; www.cutlerandgross.com)
Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com) The New Craftsmen (020 7148 3190; www.thenewcraftsmen.com) The Outnet (www.theoutnet.com) Paloma
D
Picasso for Tiffany & Co (0800 160 1837; www.tiffany.co.uk) Pandora
David Morris (020 7499 2200; www.davidmorris.com) Dior and Dior
(020 7409 2007; www.pandora.net) Parosh (www.parosh.com)
Joaillerie (020 7172 0172; www.dior.com) DKNY (www.donnakaran.com)
Polo Ralph Lauren (020 7535 4600; www.ralphlauren.co.uk) Pomellato
Dolce & Gabbana and Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria (020 7659 9000;
(020 7355 0300; www.pomellato.com) Prada (www.prada.com)
www.dolcegabbana.com) R E–F
Ralph Lauren Collection (020 7535 4600; www.ralphlauren.co.uk)
Emilia Wickstead (020 7235 1104; www.emiliawickstead.com)
Rockett St George (01444 253391; www.rockettstgeorge.co.uk)
Erdem (020 3653 0360; www.erdem.com) Eres (020 7629 8938;
Russell & Bromley (www.russellandbromley.co.uk)
www.eresparis.com) Ermanno Scervino (020 7235 0558; www. ermannoscervino.it) Etro (020 7493 9004; www.etro.com) Fendi
S
(www.fendi.com) Floor Story (020 7871 3013; www.floorstory.co.uk)
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (020 7493 1800; www.ysl.com)
Fope (www.fope.com) Frame Chain (www.framechain.co.uk)
Salvatore Ferragamo (020 7838 7730; www.ferragamo.com) Serax (+32 34 58 05 82; www.serax.com) Solid & Striped (www.solidandstriped.com)
G
Sophia Webster (www.sophiawebster.com)
Gabriela Hearst (www.gabrielahearst.com) Gemfields (020 7518 3400; www.gemfields.co.uk) Gerard Darel (020 7225 7010; www.gerarddarel.com)
T
Giorgio Armani (020 7235 6232; www.armani.com) Givenchy (www.
Tabitha Simmons and Tabitha Simmons x Johanna Ortiz
givenchy.com) Grey Ant (www.greyant.com) Gucci (020 7235 6707;
(www.tabithasimmons.com) Tasaki (020 3967 3730; www.tasaki.co.uk)
www.gucci.com)
Tiffany & Co (0800 160 1837; www.tiffany.co.uk) Tod’s (020 7493 2237; www.tods.com) Tom Ford (020 3141 7800; www.tomford.com)
H–J
Trouva (020 7193 6444; www.trouva.com)
Harry Winston (020 7907 8800; www.harrywinston.com) Heidi Klein (www.heidiklein.com) Hermès (020 7499 8856; www.hermes.
V
com) Holland & Holland (020 7499 4411; www.hollandandholland.co.uk)
Valentino and Valentino Garavani (020 7235 5855; www.valentino.com)
Jacob Cohën (www.jacobcohen.it) Jaeger-LeCoultre (020 3402 1960;
Van Cleef & Arpels (020 7493 0400; www.vancleefarpels.com)
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com) Jessica McCormack (020 7491 9999;
Versace (020 7259 5700; www.versace.com)
www.jessicamccormack.com) Jimmy Choo (www.jimmychoo.com) W–Z K
William & Son (020 7493 8385; www.williamandson.com) Wilson Stephens
Kate Spade New York (020 7287 1581; www.katespade.co.uk)
& Jones (020 7221 5265; www.wilsonstephensandjones.com) Yves Salomon
Kiki McDonough (020 7730 3323; www.kiki.co.uk) The Kooples
(www.yves-salomon.com) Zaeem Jamal (020 7100 2072;
(020 7493 1560; www.thekooples.co.uk)
www.zaeemjamal.com)
206 |
H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
| July 2019
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
FA SHION EDIT
ARIGA TOROSIAN As an Iranian-Armenian designer, Ariga Torosian has always tried to advance the minimal path using visual tools of East and West based on her findings. She graduated with a degree in graphics in Iran and fashion design master in Armenia. Due to the clash of two different cultures; Ariga tried to promote her creativity in both directions since 2016. Visit www.arigatorosian.com
THE PERFECT SILK SWEATER! Warm in Winter. Cool in Summer. In a stunning range of colours. £65. Colour shown Canary. Visit: frenchvelvet.co.uk or call to order on 01325 460669.
Y VONNE BOSNJAK Yvonne Bosnjak Prêt-à-Porter Spring/Summer 2019 collection pays tribute to elegance. The designer inspired by women’s empowerment in any aspect of their life celebrates femininity. Luxurious textures, luminous palettes and curated details are the key elements that elevate an outfit into an expression of oneself. All women’s apparel is designed and produced in Greece, while shipped worldwide. Visit www.yvonnebosnjak.com and follow @yvonnebosnjak
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
FA SHION EDIT DIJANA HONEGGER Founded in 2015,
PAVLINA JAUSS Founded in 2014, Pavlina
the initial aim of Dijana was to find
Jauss seamlessly combines sustainability and luxury
the perfect littleblack-dress. This
avant-garde fashion. Using only the finest
thought eventually
materials from European
evoked more and more ideas, which
sourced manufacturers. All garments are produced
finally resulted in the Timeless Collection.
in their own atelier in Hamburg and knitwear,
No longer bound to the traditional cycle
is manufactured by a traditional knitting
of fashion seasons, but instead unique
company in Bulgaria. The pieces from latest collection
pieces, perfect for
AW1920 are inspired by
day or night, all in a timeless and capsule style. Made from the finest, predominantly Italian fabrics, which are chosen under high quality standards, draped to perfection they evoke a sensation of elegance and nonchalance. Designed in Zurich, all garments are then produced in limited quantities in Belgrade. Visit www.dijanahonegger.com
the Greek goddess Nyx, the primordial goddess of night and personifies the very mythology of her exceptional beauty, power and darkness. For stockists and more information visit www.pavlinajauss.com
LUCK YNELLY – BERLIN Fashion Designer Christine Rochlitz established LUCKYNELLY as the first only vegan and sustainable luxury designer handbags and accessories label in 2012 based in Berlin. www.luckynelly.com Photography: Jürgen Angelow Models: Bianca Brömme, Teresa Peitz, Katharina Noël Mua: Ally Friedmann Hair styling: Melanie Rieberer Location: Regent Hotel Berlin
SHOEDOLLY ShoeDolly present the perfect espadrille, ideal for any occasion from early morning coffee to summer evenings outdoors. Designed to be supremely comfortable and classically chic, they will soon be your most faithful summer shoes. Choose from a gorgeous selection of classic colours. With sling back or ankle ties. Handmade in Spain. Order online at www.shoedolly.com
JANE WILLIAMS Jane Williams Silks is a luxury brand, creating beautifully designed and exquisitely hand-painted silks. Using the best quality silks and vibrantly, lustrous colours, the designer creates unique scarves to make you fabulous. Discover Jane's collection at www.janewilliamssilks.co.uk and @janewilliamssilks on Instagram
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
BE AUTY EDIT NATASHA GRANO TV PRESENTER & SUPER MODEL PRESENTS BELLEFONTAINE The Swiss-based luxury brand that is revolutionising skin care. Created in 2006 Bellefontaine has created an unparalleled world of anti-ageing for an elite clientele looking for youth and cosmetic excellence. With essential treatments and products that target the face and the body creating a lifting, energising, monitoring, regenerating and rejuvenating experience. Bellefontaine is the go-to brand for many celebrities including the sensational public figure, Natasha Grano. After suffering for many years with troublesome skin, Natasha incorporates her must have Bellefontaine products into her daily skin care regime that leaves the model’s skin looking and feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. Along with their range of high-end anti-ageing facial products, the Bellefontaine body treatments deliver exquisite results. The stretch mark serum & body caviar rejuvenate cream give firmness and silky skin and were Natasha’s golden serum to combat stretch marks during and after her pregnancy. As one of the leading digital influencers, celebrities and public figures, Natasha strongly recommends Bellefontaine as the beauty brand for the everyday woman. Taking the luxurious brand to new heights, you can find them on the red carpet at the prestigious Cannes Film Festival in partnership with de Grisigono jewellery at the Martinez Hotel. Explore the world of Bellefontaine exclusively at the Harrods Pharmacy and their luxurious spa treatments in Mayfair at Illuminata. Products: Revitalising Tonic Lotion, Soothing Milk Cleanser , Ultra Suncare Protection Face Cream, Eye Contour Perfection Cream, Anti-wrinkle cream, Body Beauty Rescue. www.swissbellefontaine.ch Visit Bellefontaine: Harrods Pharmacy, Door 10, 020 7225 5954
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
SUMMER BE AUTY
SPICYCHOCO BEAUTY Look no further if you are looking for a new product to simplify your makeup application. This multi-purpose EggBlend™ beauty sponge by SpicyChoco will apply your foundation fast and flawlessly. It becomes super soft and bouncy when damp and features three distinct surfaces that enable you to optimise and tailor your makeup application. Learn more at www.spicychoco.com
SAMPURE MINERALS Sampure Minerals introduces new Mineral Liquid Foundation. This stunning product with 96.5% natural ingredients, Aloe Vera, Olive Oil and Kernel Oil gives you perfectly balanced skin thanks to its great moisturising and nurturing properties. It is cruelty-free, vegan, vegetarian and halal certified. Created with love for your skin to deliver the best results. www.sampure.co.uk
ASH COSMETICS A multi-award winning luxury cosmetics line from founder Ash (Aisha Latif ) launched and created alongside fashion and skin care industry experts. The products are free from parabens, sulfates, dermatologically approved, including not tested on animals and predominantly vegan. For more information on our vegan Pixel Perfect HD translucent setting powder or Seamless HD foundation stick – available in 9 shades, visit www.ashcosmetics.com and for 20% discount
MASON PEARSON Mason Pearson have been making hairbrushes for over 125 years. These come with tufts of either pure bristle, bristle and nylon, or all nylon, and are available from all good departments stores and chemists. For a free brochure and haircare leaflet or information on authorised stockists please visit www.masonpearson.com
LOOK YOUNGER LONGER REGENTIV SPECIALIST SERUM (WITH RETINOL) This delicate and oh so effective serum for lines, wrinkles, crepey eyes and neck, vertical lip lines, sun damage and much more. Unique formulation of retinol, aloe vera, vitamin E, SPF, moisturiser – perfect to use twice daily. Four sizes from £29.95 to £149. To receive exclusive 10% reader discount apply code HARPERS7 when ordering. www.regentiv.com or call 01923 212555 for advice or to order.
use code HB20 IG/FB @ashcosmetics
or call 020 7491 2613.
See website for full range and special offers.
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
SUMMER BE AUTY Luscious lips are as mandatory as your passport. Code8’s 5Secs Express Colour is the ultimate multi-tasking lip product you need on holiday. Thanks to repairing and nourishing shea butter, your lips will stay plump and hydrated – perfect for sunset selfies. A tip: dab some on your cheeks for subtle blush or lift your gaze with a hint of colour on the eyelids. Come cocktail hour, for a bold and fresh pout, Glazé Lip Lacquer, which comes in eight sophisticated and vibrant colours,
Precision Liquid Eyeliner
will let you heighten your look. Just dab it in the centre of your lips and spread outwards for a long-wearing blotted down colour stain, or apply another layer for a glossy look that looks sublime with bronzed and highlighted skin.
5secs Express Hydrating Lip Colour
GET YOUR SUMMER GLOW WITH CODE8’S ESSENTIALS There is more to life than just make-up – and this is especially true in the summer. We have interesting things to do and beautiful places to see, which is why Code8 designed a truly streamlined, long-lasting
YOUR CODE8 SUMMER ESSENTIALS
make-up range, so you can live your best summer life. Whether you are roasting in the sun reading this magazine, or mentally packing for your upcoming summer getaway, we have compiled a travelfriendly edit of warm-weather essentials from Code8 that let you create a variety of looks, ranging from naturally sun-kissed during the day, polished for golden hour, or dramatic for after-dark soirees.
Want to draw attention to the eyes? Who doesn’t? Code8’s new Precision Liquid Eyeliner packs a punch when it comes to creating a smouldering look: waterproof, transfer-proof and with a precision applicator brush, you will be the envy of every pool party. The Lash Sophisticate Mascara will tint and separate your lashes for a high-definition, flirty effect.
Radiate
Highlight
Second Skin Finish Beauty Balm
Sculpting HD Palette
When it’s finally time for beauty sleep, Decode 3 in 1 Makeup Remover will cleanse, soothe and hydrate your skin courtesy of Coconut Oil, Macadamia Oil and Aloe Vera. No moisturiser needed, and so, to bed.
Glazé
The London-based brand’s Knead Technology ensures superb all-day wear that lets you look like the best version of yourself whatever the activity. Code8’s Radiate BB Cream and Highlight HD Palette transform the look of your skin for a glow with healthy radiance and
Decode
Lash Sophisticate
Visit www.codeeight.com/ summer-glow or @code8beauty on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube for more information or visit the store for application tips and find your own code at 4 Burlington Arcade in
enhancement of your holiday tan.
3 in 1 Makeup Remover
High Definition Mascara
Mayfair
Intense Colour Lacquer
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
STYLE ESSENTI A LS KIT HEATH British jewellery brand Kit Heath is renowned for its distinctive sterling silver jewellery. With a philosophy to create personal and enduring pieces, the attention to detail shines in every delicious curve and twist of silver. Designed with the discerning, yet modern woman in mind, there is a perfect piece for every occasion. Kit Heath is available at John Lewis, independent retailers nationwide and online at www.kitheath.com
THE HOUSE OF ALEXANDER YETMAN Ostentatiously simple, bespoke fashion – creating sculptural beauty in cloth. Foxy wears a black velvet dress, she carries a tailored doeskin wool coat and a silk scarf. Made by hand. www.alexanderyetman.com JOYCE YOUNG Are you looking for a stylish elegant outfit for a wedding or any special occasion which will stand out from the crowd? Take a look at Joyce Young’s website.
CLELIA S. JEWELLERY Mythology-inspired fine jewellery brand created by Chiara Santilli. She designs, hand-carves and brings her wearable sculptures to life through the lost-wax technique. Made of gold and precious gemstones, rich in exquisite detail and symbolism that evoke a sense of empowerment, her work is internationally recognised and exhibited in art galleries. Discover more about this emerging talent and her enticing jewellery by following @clelia.s_jewellery on Instagram. www.clelia-s-jewellery.com
Joyce and her team have been designing for discerning women since 1993. All her designs are individually made to measure so size is no problem. Exclusively available from Joyce Young in London and Glasgow. Glasgow 0141 942 8900 London 020 7224 7888 www.joyceyoungcollections.co.uk
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
BIJOUX EDIT SOPHIE HARLEY LONDON Sophie Harley is celebrated for her exquisitely designed handmade jewellery. She welcomes clients to her Notting Hill studio to purchase from existing collections or to have their own bespoke pieces created, often incorporating clients inherited jewellery and precious stones. This stunningly beautiful, “Medusa” ring is made in 18ct yellow gold and set with a dazzling .50ct brilliant cut white diamond. Also set within the serpent’s intricately engraved, coiled body are a total of 18 sparkling rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Discover more unique jewels at www.sophieharley.com or contact the studio to arrange an appointment. T: +44 (0) 20 7430 2070 E: [emailprotected]
EIGHT MOONS Eight Moons is a collection of luxury jewellery, elevated with the mystical vitality of crystals. Their distinct pieces are celestially inspired, designed to protect and energize the wearer by fusing traditional craftsmanship with modern geometric designs. These dynamic, yet eclectic, styles range from their coveted cage necklaces to bracelets and rings, always worn effortlessly from the beaches of Malibu to the galleries of Manhattan – or anywhere you need a little magic. Discover more
ALEXANDRA KHOURI Only by appointment in London or Paris, French gemmologist and jewellery designer Alexandra Khouri works with her clients to create bespoke and personal pieces of fine jewellery made in London. Be part of the journey. Create your own “HEXA” version by choosing your gemstone(s) and precious metal. Photos: “HEXA” rings in 18kt gold set with a blue sapphire and a rhodolite garnet and an 18kt white gold “HEXA” necklace set with an aquamarine and diamonds. Starting Price £1400. To see her creations visit www.alexandra-khouri.com and follow her on Instagram @alexandrakhouri.london
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Bazaar Swimwear
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Bazaar Bijoux
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
Bazaar Fashion & Beauty
New Naturally-Active Advanced Skin Care
The No.1 choice of skin care professionals This British brand is the evolution of 20 years skin care expertise. Leading skin expert Zaheda Hafez Founder of The Laser Treatment Clinic in Harley Street London, collaborated with specialist cosmetic scientists to create innovative formulations that each contain an exclusive complex of marine actives, botanical actives and essential oils, that work in synergy to deliver powerful collagen boosting benefits for supple, plump more beautiful youthful looking skin Direct From Our Clinic To Your Home
SHOP NOW WWW.ZAHEDA.COM Zaheda Skincare from The Laser Treatment Clinic, 1 Harley Street London W1
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
Bazaar Summer Spirits
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS
ZAAR A B
PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK
…CELEBRATE A SUNLIT ZEST FOR LIFE? When Dolce & Gabbana give you lemons, make glamorous Sicilian lemonade…
Leather tote, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. Gold, yellow sapphire, emerald and diamond necklace, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
STYLED BY ROSIE WILLIAMS
РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS